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Try BA282 diodes for the MA856 diodes. 1N914 = 1N4148 and both are OK subs for the 1S1588

Monolithic are Ceramics but much better quality because of how they're made. They are best in places where pf values are required and they are the best for power supply and IC decoupling. And as another general rule of thumb, if audio passes through the cap, use plastic/mylar/box caps.

Ah, your young eyes were overwhelmed then... This is THE Venice Beach skating guitar guy, world renowned:

There is/was a certain guitarist on roller skates in Venice Beach on the boardwalk that could use one of these battery powered guitar amps... I wonder if he's still around?

Hi. The Maestro Fuzztain (MFTZ-1) uses a 4007 in the Audio path. Lectric FX just came out with a clone board. Their build docs has a schematic. I think the 4007 is used for distortion.

Ebay has GL5516 for cheap. Sure you have to buy 50 or 100 but they're like $5 for the bulk package. Buying bulk is an advantage as there is so much variance between units, it's good to get several so they can be matched up. Check out this link for some suggestions on how to test...

I think they use Microchip PIC ICs. I'm surprised ED is giving out the code, it's very nice of him! These PIC ICs have an option where the programmer can "burn" the inputs to the chip after programming so the IC can't be copied but is still able to execute the code that was programmed into it...

EL84s like it's bigger brother the EL34 tend to break up relatively early because they are true pentodes and not beam power tubes, like the 6L6, KT66, 6V6, KT88, etc. On similar sized tubes, a pentode will always break up earlier than a beam tube. To the OP, It depends what you want. You want...

Hi! I made myself a RG Special and carefully selected the two resistors like RG notes in his article. No math is involved, you just have to move the decimal over 1 place to get actual values. I even use this tester for silicon transistors, which 99.9% of them show zero leakage, but the tester...

Ooo, which one, the Spectre?? That's the only analog TZ flanger I'm aware of... If that's the case, I thought Joel was the genius behind that one... Tell us more! BTW, Puretube's 3207s are legit, I have no problem with the ones I have bought from him... They work great.

Yes, the russians are usually marked the opposite. Best to check using a meter. Hook one up to a meter, when the diode conducts, the end where the black lead is on is the cathode (where the line is, not the triangle on the PCB).

All of mine have been 0.3-0.4v. Do you have pics of yours? Where did you get them, there is a certain rare/obsolete parts supplier (not small bear) that has been known to knowingly sell bunk parts. Please include pics

If the gating is too much try with a Q3 transistor with more leakage.

I love the eyes!

Yeah, for what they are they sure do want a pretty penny for them

If the manufacturers were really serious they would pack about 4 ozs of C4 in the pedal and finish it off with a tamper switch on the enclosure... An added benefit would be instant stage effects during the show! That would be clever...

Nice build, I like the color... Can you share what you used for transistors in each spot? (Gain and leakage numbers please)

I wouldn't swap the pot in your already built PCB, too much trouble. If you end up liking the sound of this pedal after tweaking it, I'm sure you will build another in the future. Lol! Like I said, the audio pot will give you more variance in the gated sputtering sound, once that adjustment gets...

Using a log or audio taper pot instead of a linear pot for the "attack" control will help greatly to give you more variance when turning that knob.

This has been my experience also. I guess it depends what sound the builder wants. On mine, I finally ended up with a MK1 build where the first half of the "attack" knob offers varying degrees of sputter/gating and the second half of the pot is solid fuzz but the sound doesn't vary much in the...