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I rely on Björn Juhl, close the back lid and hope noone will open it again. Secret trick: No battery operation allowed. Does anyone else seal the back with black goop or something...😝

My way to deal with such funny values is to measure my stash. In this case take the lowest reading of 39k resistors and call it a day....

Nice Mongrel! Play it in good health. P.S. Never saw so much pickguard screws. You got them for a good price, right?

EQD Arrows = PPCB Amentum is my favorite

I am tending to use them in the future for my builds, but only after measuring their actual value. Most of them are in the pF region.

You made me measure the cheapest set of ceramics i bought several years ago. Its a tiny plastic bag with tiny orange caps and super thin legs. The bag says 6.8nF. I measured 20 of them from 6.2 up 11.7nF, nearly all higher than 8nF. WTF?

First: Thank you for sharing the deep diving write up @mybud Second thought was that this would be great stuff for the Pedalpcb Wiki. @PedalPCB: But it shows an invalid ssl certificate.

Yeah, loudness is a big concern in smaller venues, even for the musicians. We had an guitarist who quit playing with a band because of his hearing. He did wear protections all the time but his doc promised him to get deaf when he is older.

Asking for a friend and client. He changed from a Marshall amp to a Blackstar Amped3. Good sounds, works well in rehersal situations and recording. He uses the power out to drive a monitor box and the xlr to the mixing console. But he had weird artefacts in live situation. The sound sometimes...

I meant taper. Try a A100k or a C100k

Just guessing: Sounds like both pots have wrong taper.

Possible. I built a fuzz with a fixed resistor as fuzz control. If you have a factory pedal, you can find your setting and put resistors in. Or use trim pots which allow to change settings with a screw driver.

As i understand it this pedal tries to sound like an amp. Without the amp tone controls it will sound different, even if the control are on a neutral setting. And a whole lot louder.

What are you BARTs? MP21?

Folks here created PCBs with Chuck's mod R11 - 1.5K R12 - 5.6K C5 - 1uF C6 - 220nF I made szukalkis speedysheep with that switchable mod. The C6 really changed the mids and fattened it. So you better should stay with the 100nF. Best bet would be to breadboard it and check out for yourself.

There might be different ways to skin a cat, but the Aion Apollo Mk.2 schematic is surely one.

Just for sanity: you didn't mix up input and output? Otherwise you need a signaltracer. If you hear the bias knob, the break must be before that point.

I recommend also using a 9mm pot on wires.

What HamishR said. Here is the manual. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/65b06a7618b86c6c69ea8b04/t/67df7db6a8e4b9477b4aae5f/1742699958995/FWW_BUSS_KW_EDIT.pdf

https://guitarpedalparts.com/products/rc4558p-dual-op-amp