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But it clearly failed, I can clearly see that's a 5. The real trick is to paint 1, 2 and 3 on the other capacitors to make you wonder what happened to 4. That will drive anyone trying to trace it mad, and my secret is safe!

I haven't burned any FV-1's yet, but the feeling right as I had put a trimmer in place of a CLR to control LED brightness, turned it, and the LED went bright, then off and started smoking a little is priceless.

If necessary, you could drill a hole in the bottom and put some sort of a plug on it, so you could stick a screwdriver through to adjust it. Still not ideal, of course, and hard to see a world where you need to tweak it enough to warrant a hole but not enough to put the pot on the side or...

Remember to check your input and output jacks to verify you've wired the ground and hot wires correctly, that's the one that still gets me from time to time.

You didn't answer my question about the wires touching each other after they've gone through the breakout board? I doubt it's the breakout board itself, but I have resolved weird issues like that by wiring directly too, there could be bridges or something. You could check that connectivity...

The wires going to the footswitch seem kinda long and untrimmed on the other side, did you fix that after the pic or could they be making contact there? Are the pots insulated from the PCB? I can only see one having insulation, could the others be shorting components? Like Bricksnbeatles said...

Yep, straight to explosion. As far as I can tell, it will probably be just fine for silicon transistors. There might be some small differences, but you don't strictly speaking need to aim for the exact same HFE values either, you could go for what you like the best. Sockets work well for that...

The ducking is on a control, so you can just turn that off and it's a normal spring reverb, too. But if you use it subtly it can help improve legibility, while the reverb still sounds just as big. If you're in the EU I can ship you a PCB or two, I've got spares, but probably not worthwhile...

Yeah I thought about adding that there could also be some possible downsides, but I'm just guessing my way around electronics to be honest, so it's good to hear from someone more experienced that at the very least it's probably not a good idea to start blindly grounding all outputs for pedals I...

I don't think having the output hanging makes much of a difference since the input is grounded anyway. But maybe there could be some edge case where grounding the output might also be slightly better?

There's always the https://scientificguitarist.wixsite.com/home/disappearing-act, although "easily swap in different tanks" only works if you pick tanks of the correct impedance - although I think that restriction applies for other options too. I am confused as to why this is not talked about...

I also use that one (I think it's in all the PPCB docs too). The original PCB posted would have worked fine, the only comment I have is that the pins are usually "Input, pedal/board input, ground, LED, pedal/board output, output" in that order more or less, so you might want to stick with that...

In my experience, the cheapest small diameter DC jacks are shit on Tayda, those are the only component I've really had any issues with. But I use the outies now because they make my life easier, and the cheap ones are fine for that (as the bigger diameter DC jacks were too on Tayda, from the...

So it's similar in effect, but not as good as doing it this way? To be honest, it could just be that people don't really feel the need to "go the extra mile" in this case. Gain is usually set by ear, and as long as it's "good enough" where it won't jump a huge amount from a small bump on the...

I am very dumb when it comes to stuff like this, but I wonder if that is more about improving the "law behavior" when using a linear taper pot, and the issue is sidestepped by using audio taper pots instead, which could work in a similar manner without the extra resistor? At least the TS9 I...

The lazy solution would be to just tack a big muff tone stack into the end? Or just a low pass filter too might work, like the RAT. I'm not sure what the modded tone pot is doing, could also be something like that already, but maybe just tuned weird. I added a simple low pass filter to the combo...

https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/01/mxr-distortion-w-wampler-mods.html one comment said the tone worked backwards, so... maybe it was swapped due to that? Hard to tell. A couple of other comments call out the same 2n2/22nF thing, but no answers really. Also the tone pot could be 1M or...

22n or 2n2 will obviously make a difference, but isn't it all the same whether two legs are attached to ground or just one? In either case it's essentially working as a variable 1M resistor between the cap and ground. You could essentially only attach two of the legs anyway and leave the third...

I've built the Moonn Dream and it's great. Also the Moonn Reverberation machine and it's not great. But I don't think it's Moonn's fault (and disclaimer, it is probably fine for doing experimental ambient noodling around, I'd just prefer it to work in a way where I can toggle it on and off, and...

Are you sure the BOM is for this board? I don't see FB1 or FB2 on the BOM either.