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-Certain designers like to keep the polarity of the cap in question, regardless of the cap type. Chuck's schematics (check out his boneyard posts) will consider polarity for all capacitors he uses. Polarity should normally be considered when you're using an electrolytic cap. Unless told...

The Mach 1 is pretty great by itself, but to each his own. Nice, tight build!

A lot of good breadboard advice on here. Most important one is to build a circuit and test it in stages, which you have. Your first stage is nothing more than a booster and should be louder than your input signal especially with the knob cranked. A few observations based on the pics in post...

I do not have the original pedal,so I cannot vouch for the authenticity of the schematic Robert put up. You may be right.

Yep. I'm probably going to keep this on my board for a few more days then take it down. I really just wanted to see what all the fuss was about with this circuit. Schematic-wise it's interesting, but sonically not my cup of tea.

C4 was definitely the culprit. I also don't need the 100uf cap in the power rails. OP07 sounded best to me, followed by TL061, then TL072. The differences are subtle. The DRIVE control doesn't do much until about 8 o'clock regardless of the opamp used.

So, that would probably explain my findings in only swapping out opamps in keeping the circuit stock. I had a OP07, TL061, and TL071. OP07 caused a lot of glitchy, octave-y oscillation once the DRIVE control was cranked above 10 o'clock. Reminded me of a MXR Blue Box with more noise. Fun, but...

No, not yet. It's still on my board so I'll give it a go. I thought C4 would attenuate some of the super high frequencies, based solely on the schematic.

It's been quite a while since I've breadboarded something. Now that most of us are approaching the holiday season and colder months, life is slowly quieting down (yardwork, house projects, etc.) and I'm forcing myself to take time here and there to work on some circuits. Here is the PPCB Awful...

Those electros look drunk

Yes, they all link together. Some designers throw their signals to ground and others to Vref (or V Bias in this case). There is a voltage divider cutting the voltage in half along with a filtering cap before going into opamp buffer configuration.

Your first step is visual inspection. Do any resistors/caps look fried? Electros don't last forever. Heck, maybe the button to engage the effect is fried. Are there secure connections going to/from the effect? Next step IMO would be to confirm all IC are getting proper power just in the chorus...

Wait. At least an hour. Also, it should be warm out.

I've also used the Rustoleum gold. The key for me was to do very light, quick coats. Time consuming, but worth it!

Circuit boards for circuit building blocks? A great idea for the budding breadboarder!

Don't question the Wizard!!!!

You're clearly running out of knobs to complete a whole set.

Skoal, Grizzly, Cougar. Whatever is at your local gas station.

Go buy a can of Skoal instead. At least you know its metal.

I think I used some fake 1n34As that were really shottkys. Only 1 switch setting had a small volume drop for me. Nor worse or better clipping. Just…different.