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Good to know you had a happy resolution.

Your best bet is include some good, clear photos of both sides of the PCB and all the connections. That way we might better see to provide more help.

Meh. That's just Barry's marketing. If you go with the Mini-Me, ping me and I'll post a modified schematic and some pics for the mod(s).

GuitarPCB has their "Mini-Me" (modified EHX Small Clone clone) that fits handily into a 1590B. I even add a mod to the ones I build and still works well in a 1590B.

Seems legit for high frequency stuff; but doubtful it applies to the voltages and audio frequencies used in most pedals.

I've pre-ordered a few of them from CabinTech Global to try out. After reviewing the datasheet and comparing to other 8-pin DIP BBDs, they are not pin-for-pin compatible. So a new layout would be needed. Considering the SSI2100's power requirements, I do see that it might be possible to create...

That price is available only in quantities of 1,000. :( $4.73 in singles at CabinTech Global (discounts for quantities).

If it has a built-in clock, why does it have a Clock pin (pin #8)?

Some good, clear photos may help too.

In your "Change 3" image, that diagram does not show a ground going to the main PCB.

Have you been reading any material on the FV-1 or SpinCAD? I recommend this link for a more focused look at the Pitch Shift block. And the only reference I have for pitch control is this chart . . . Considering the FV-1 has a pitch limit of 1.2 octaves down and a max of 2.0 octave up, I use...

Open the patch in SpinCAD, right-click on the pitch block and select "Control Panel" Therein are the settings that can be adjusted.

By the description of the problem(s), it sounds like an intermittent connection. I'd reflow EVERYTHING and give it another go. If it still goes wonky, put it on the bench and test the voltages for the +9V and +3.3V supplies and lines.

Yes. Use the 33pF (C4) cap. No. Using the 33pF cap does NOT have a negative impact on the sound. It's part of the circuit design and used in most every Rat build.

Nice! I take it the bypass doubles as a Rate indicator?

If I'm not mistaken, the +18V and +15V are the unloaded PS values. With the loads applied, the voltages work within the design parameters of the circuits' design and components. I'd stick with the BOM and designated component values to avoid any issues.

You need to swap the middle two green & black wire on the stompswitch PCB. You have them backwards.

The wattage rating limitation is also dependent on the current draw of the circuit. For circuits that draw just few mA, ⅛W is fine. Ohm's Law math will get you actual limits.

30 positions won't work. The FV-1 requires 8 or less.