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Haven't had a problem with the ones at Tayda yet, but then again I've only had a few.

Maybe things just don't rock anymore?

Mecurial was my first thought. Maybe Tone Job as another option.

Something simple like a speaker cranker or other electra is a good candidate.

Is that running on 1.5 volts?

Did you reflow the middle pin on the A500K jack. That one looks suspect, but could just be the picture. What's up with the clipping switch. Mounted on the opposite side of the board?

Lightspeed is great but I don't think it fits what they're asking for. I was thinking crunchbox deluxe, but that's more gain they want. I haven't tried an OD-3 but agree from the descriptions I've heard about it, it would likely make a good match.

2n3904 has an odd pinout? The ones I've used had the same pinout of most BJTs (with the exception of bc549s--now those have the odd pinouts).

They'll give anyone a well known member tag here. <- ???

Don't forget this one: Basic Buffers (muzique.com)

I've build the BSIAB2 which is a very similar circuit, but used 2n5457s. If you have some to try, pop 'em in and see if they can be biased.

For this they're the same. The Vcc- in most pedal circuits is ground. I don't think those ICs would be the issue.

Desoldering videos always make it look easier than it is when I try it.

Why'd you leave the covers on the pots? Take those off and save them for when they matter.

Wait until you see smd caps. It's not the size that matters, it's the ... wait what's the topic again?

You can't. The most resistance you'll get by putting two resistors in parallel is the resistance of the lesser of the two. You can change the taper though. Lowering the resistance shouldn't have that much (if any) impact on the volume output--the volume pot is just acting as a voltage...

I think your definition of "technical" is different than mine.

I've been using Tayda solid core occasionally for hooking the pcb to switch. No failures yet. To those who have, are you unboxing and reboxing? For most builds, there's no movement so breakage seems really unlikely. I could see the risk only if I had to pull everything out.

I use a ruler and measure the distance between the pots/switches then make my own template.

What kind of DC jack is that? I haven't seen one like it. Reason I ask is that some folks have had issues because the jack's outer ring makes contact with enclosure (i.e. not negative center).