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If I can find my 535Q I'll verify the schematic.

Lets determine if the problem is onboard or offboard... Insulate the back of the tone pot, electrical tape isn't good enough, if nothing else just temporarily (and gently) bend it forward slightly so it's clearly making no contact with the PCB. Disconnect the footswitch wiring from the PCB...

Swap Q1 and Q2 and see if the problem changes location, if so, it's the transistor. If not, check the value of the trimpot and the resistor from Q2 source to ground. If the transistor biases properly in the Q1 location there's no reason it shouldn't bias similarly in Q2 unless one of the...

Yours is definitely upside down. There are very few PCBs offered here where the IC is installed inverted, pin 1 (and the notch) is almost always at the top.

https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Schematic-Binaura.png https://forum.pedalpcb.com/attachments/binaura-txt.59804/

It doesn't always work out on the first try. Some PCBs take several revisions to get right. The need for "perfect" symmetry is a weakness I'm working to overcome, don't stress yourself out trying to learn a bad practice.

The Binaura is full stereo, if you don't need the USB connection. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb327/

You can use multiple diodes (zener or otherwise) that add up to the required voltage tacked across the pair as long as: 1) You use a separate string of diodes for each polarity 2) At least one of the diodes in each series string must be non-zener (silicon, schottky, as long as it doesn't break...

It will switch instantly and trigger an EEPROM reload when switching back to external mode.

Yep, (Re)Confirmed.

Verification compares the PCB to it's schematic, as long as each PCB matches it's corresponding schematic (portion) it'll pass verification. At least in my case, verification doesn't do a "sanity check" to ensure my circuit makes sense, it just makes sure all traces are routed.

I split the full schematic into two separate files with ports (pads) representing the connections between them. Each PCB layout is done as a completely separate project. After both boards are complete I then create a "Panel" file which is basically both projects copy/pasted (and grouped/locked...

There's an intermittent connection of some sort, either short or open. Obviously look for any bad solder connections and check/reseat your socketed ICs. If all else fails, reinsulate those pots with something more substantial. This is almost always the issue. Your build looks clean, but...

Did you insulate the bottom row of pots so they can't make contact with the back of the PCB? Electrical tape / double sided tape is almost never good enough, dust covers would be ideal. Does the LED light instantly or does it illuminate at low brightness as well?

You know it had to be @Harry Klippton

Yes, I believe the PM-30 board is just some muting circuitry and an inverter to send a balanced signal to the TPA power amp IC.

Yeah I traced the main effect PCB and most of the PM-30 module (if I recall most of that is from the TPA datasheet). This isn't verified, double-checked, nothing.... don't trust it. 🤣

Agreed. This way if the switch fails (and during transition) you are left with R1 + R2, not an open connection.