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[Copy-paste of intro blurb from the last time I did this:] I've been at the pedal building game for quite some time now, and I feel like I've come a huge way from my dad helping me solder up my very first Big Muff (love you, Dad) wherein I overpaid for every component, didn't understand the...

Cool idea! Definitely gonna add this to my list of circuit snippets and play with it in some bigger circuits.

Yep, it's better!

Yay! I like it too (save the aforementioned bold/non-bold issue). Thanks!

Here's another Viola Pink in different lighting for you:

I'd get both - I use the flywire ones frequently (they're good for getting around big components or making connections that you expect to plug and unplug a lot, or to bridge sections that are spaced far apart if you're prototyping large circuits).

I'd say so! You can get a lot of mileage out of a board like that. You can definitely build Electras and all manner of classic transistor fuzzes on something like that to your heart's content.

No worries! It's situational, sometimes builds call for polarized 1uF as well. But when they're in the signal path like this, it can sometimes be hard to tell which side will have higher potential, so it's "safer" to just put a non-polarized part in there. The risk of getting the polarity wrong...

Great build!

Yeah I've been using the Tayda breadboards and have exactly this problem. They're cheap but not extremely high quality.

BAT41 and BAT46 are silicon Schottky diodes. They should work, and will have low forward voltages similar to a germanium diode and may get you most of the way to the germanium diode sound (because different diodes have different I vs V curves, which also contribute to the sound). There are only...

Thanks! And tell me about it, I think this is the first time I've used the US-made 1400s and they are very nice 👀

The newest kid on my block is another lovely Darkglass clone from Aion, this time the Binary fuzz, based on the Duality Fuzz Engine. I really like my Maelstrom, so I was excited to give this one a try: It took me a while to settle on an aesthetic for this build, and I went with a bit of a...

Oh god no!! Lmao. You're looking for @vigilante398, he's the one behind Sushi Box and C2C Electronics. Usually, but not always, the larger-value caps (47uF and up) tend to be power filters. You often find middle values like 22uF as emitter/source bypass capacitors, and the signal path ususally...

Yep! I've definitely used them and have a bunch in the ol' stash but I just stopped buying them for purely aesthetic reasons. Depends on what sort of deal you can get on them and where they're going in the circuit. If they're just for power filters it shouldn't matter as long as they're good...

Here's my $0.02 on parts (some of which has already been said by others, sorry!): I almost always use resistors from Tayda and almost always use metal film resistors. As with a lot of things they sell, these used to be middling-to-poor quality but have dramatically improved as of a few years...

Man I'm super tempted to grab a Bassdude... one of the greatest bass tones I ever experienced first-hand was a P-Bass through a 4x10 Bassman. But I need more PCBs right now like I need a hole in the head :censored:

Yes, I used the same template I used for the Triumvirate for the Mini-Mu but adjusted the holes to the correct sizes.

Definitely true - I liked SFD106 germaniums in mine, but there is still a massive boost in level.

Quite some time ago I breadboarded the Lowballer and was experiencing this as well, so I included a volume pot just for the distortion side, which worked very well. I ended up with a more modified version (which someday I intend to share, lol) but perhaps try that and see? I did mine like this...