Search results

Also regarding the smaller 1u caps, it also seems like socketing the TL072 might be too risky. It looks like it is right up against the bottom side of the daisy when you socket it underneath it. I'll probably just solder the TL072 directly since I won't be swapping IC's. Is this what other folks...

Chuck, amazing job explaining all this to all of us less literate builders out there. ? I know you were mostly discussing matching phasor for transistors but for SMD components like a JFET201, will I still need to test them or are they robotically built to enough spec to be matched because...

Not yet, I’ve been swamped with other projects but would like to start working on this soon to try it out. I’ll keep you posted.

Ah very good to know about the switches. 2 square holes it is!

What’s the hole on the bottom for? Taking the seed off the socket?

Good to know. The FV1 is decent at tracking on some other pitch shifting patches.

The controls are a little different than normal. Full CW for the first 3 settings keeps the LFO pitched to unity. As you said, rolling it off CCW makes it detune into total noise. But for the 4th mode on the arpeggiator, the knob controls the rate of the arpeggio. So full CCW is a slow up and...

How it latency on that when the lag is fully CCW? It sounded pretty fast in the video but it’s hard to tell without seeing your hands playing. Sounds great! I’ve always been curious about this one.

I’ve been using Code Blocks so that I can follow along to a 4 hour C++ YouTube video. Couple concerns so far: 1) it’s crashed twice already just doing basic edits to the sample code. Nothing crazy. 2) the last edit was 2013 so it appears there’s little support or bug updates for MacOS upgrades...

What kind of USB cable is that? Type C? I haven’t looked at mine close enough to tell. Something very flat and compact but maybe not Type C USB.

On the momentary footswitches, those are the 2 lug connection type, correct? Is there a Tayda link for a recommendation?

Also check the wiring for the volume pot. That middle wire (red) looks like it got melted and a chunk of it’s laying on the yellow wire next to it. I’ve learned to save a thousand poroblems by using PCB mounted pots and stopped wiring them unless I absolutely have to for some reason. Good...

Stompboxparts.com and lovemyswitches.com both have BBM enclosures. I got a cool like green one. Also search for Gorva enclosures. Those are those sleek curved enclosures. Those will also be deep enough to house the transformer. goof luck!

I think a 1590xx might be too shallow. The point of a 1590BBM is that it’s extra deep to house the transformer. Otherwise, it’ll be too shallow. 1590BBM is ~1.5” deep. 1590XX is 1.386” so it might be a little bit short.

It is a tube screamer clone. So yes

Cool that’s a great idea to be able to control the pot outside the enclosure to stretch up or down the delay times.

For the clock pot, did you just wire a LUG pot to the 3 spots for the trim pot on the clock PCB? Looks great! Can you bend a PCB pot to fit the pads?

I have a general hardware question about the Toggle switches and pots. Is there a specific value range or will it be dependent on what kind of pedal we’re developing? Or should I just get all 500k A or B and call it good? Are the toggle switches SPDT ON/ON or ON/off/ON? thanks!

Getting ready to tackle the 6-band EQ! Fun times ahead!

Oh wow. That’s so simple. Thanks for the diagram too. I have a extra arachnid I’ll try that on.