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Oh I see. It all sits on top. I’m so dumb. Thanks. Also are the DPDT on off on? Or On on on?

Ok. I’ve soldered in the components but clueless how the DIP switch’s 1) reach out wide enough to the socket holes-do I have to angle the sockets inward? 2) how do the 2 5 switch DIPs both fit on the socket (10 slots for 2 5-pin switches) with the v2 gap between every 5 DIP’s. Probably...

The box capacitors are typically going to be smaller and better sized for the board than Mylar capacitors. Sometimes I’ve had to replace Mylar caps because you can bend the legs to fit, but the cap itself is too big for nearby components.

So I know that the DIP switches have changed to 4 of the 5 switch DIP’s. It appears the 4 10 pin outs are the same for the DIP switches. Is there anything else different from V1? Also, are the 2 SPDT switches for Si/GE or Si/LED just on/on? The BoM only lists the 3 DPDT switches. Thanks, James

There are 2 solders on the DPDT that aren’t shiny like the rest in all the photos. Try resoldering the 2 joints I’ve marked. Those DPDT are nuts to take out if broken. At least you know one of the bypasses is working at least, so that’s good.

Is the switch your referring to the SPDT or DPDT switch?

Where does that Tone Control go in the signal path? Anywhere in the output after the PCB?

Where did you get the NKT 275’s from? I’ve only found them in orders from Eastern European military manufacturers.

Sweet. Can we see a gutshot?

Did you have any issues with sourcing transistors?

Looks great. Love the decal!

Almost none, unless HTML counts. Lol. But it’s a good place to learn to start. It looks like there’s a fairly small vocabulary of code and commands (less than a 100??), so it should come together with some practice and lots of YouTube and forum reading!

I’m going to work on editing/modding stuff next. Spent a long time reading different software and styles. SpinCAD sounds like one that comes up a lot.

I previously had an FV-1 D3lay and Kaleidoscope and loved them. The new version really dramatically improves the volume and clarity of the wet signal. I popped in the D3lay EEPROM and it sounded really great. The 3 CV pots seem to have more noticeable effect as well, which is nice especially on...

Good lord, that was a LOT harder than I thought. The square part was super easy, I drilled a 1/2” hole and used a triangle file to flatten out the hole. Overcut it a smidge but good enough. Now for the disaster part, the SPDT switch so that it puts the USB as close as possible to the enclosure...

A triangle bit on a flat side will suffice if I don’t have a square file? Or should I try to get a square file that’s big enough to fit the round hole?

Also-any strategy for which hole to drill first? The SPDT and the USB have to be just perfectly aligned for the USB to be flush against the enclosure and the switch hole to be just right to not warp the board all weird. I feel like I should get the SPDT drilled and then line up the USB slot...

Thanks for the feedback folks. Yeah pictures would be helpful. Thanks.

Any thoughts on best ways to punch a square hole for the USB port on the FV-1 development board? I just finished writing it up and it is 100% louder and clearer than the old version of the paragon, D3lay, radium springs models. Can’t wait to get it boxed.

Sweet. I think that’s a great idea too! Hopefully I’ll have mine wired up today or tomorrow.