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It also looks as if you have uses thin tape to insulate the back of the pot that is under the board. I know from experience that cut component leads can pierce even pretty thick/strong tape very quickly.

OK. The dry sound in the arachnid bypasses the FV-1 chip. If you are not getting dry sound through the mix pot then you will not be getting any signal into the FV-1 either, which means that even if the FV-1 is working, you won't get wet sound out of it. You need to audio probe from the input...

Honestly, it may not sound like it, but it may be a good thing. A problem that is there all the time is easier to find and fix than a problem that as erratic. I think I would first be audio probing to see where the signal dies.

Working for 30 seconds sounds like either something gradually heating up until it stops, or a capacitor gradually charging up until it is fully charged and that stops the circuit working. Check (carefully) for over-warm components, check capacitor values and orientation, and check to see if...

The regulator only powers the Belton brick. The datasheet for the brick says that it draws typically 60mA, and 100mA at maximum. The 78l05 can deliver 100mA, so by rights it should power the brick OK. The larger regulator can deliver 1A. It will probably need a heatsink to deliver that...

A few things to double check first. I know it sounds basic, but double check and make sure you haven't plugged the guitar into the output and the amp into the input. Most (all?) of us have done that. Check that the board is getting voltage with a multimeter. The arachnid has a mix pot to...

Your meter is saying that the new speakers should be OK. I think I would be trying the original speaker back in it, just to make sure that the amp is still working.

If you have a mulitmeter and you use it to test the DC resistance of the speakers, you should also see the speaker cone physically move one way or the other while under test. The meter tests DC resistance, while the specification is for AC impedance, so a 4 ohm speaker won't measure exactly 4...

The wiring looks as if it should be correct. Did you try the 2 speakers individually to make sure they are both OK?

I don't have this one, but from another thread I was under the impression that the original unit works by turning down the volume, not by hard gating.

I don't know about the captain bit, but glitching on sustain can be the nature of this kind of pedal as well. They work on which frequency (basic sine wave) is the most pronounced harmonic in the waveform, and work from that frequency being the note that is being played. As a string sustains...

I don't hear that on mine. What notes are you using? Sounds very low. I had an original Boss one back in the day and my ocelot sounds as close as I can remember without being able to A/B with an original. It won't respond well much below a B or C on a standard tuned 4 string bass, and only...

I just love that he is playing some Kings X riffs. It does sound very good

I have one of these and there is no ringing. I would use an audio probe to see if I could narrow down which part of the circuit it is coming from. Slight pops when turning on or off can be normal for any true bypass pedal. A really loud one would be a different thing

The daughter board seems to just have the switch, LED and LED resistor on it. I would be tempted to just wire those components to the main board with individual wires and forget the ribbon cable and daughter board - easier to replace in the future. Solder the resistor directly to the LED and...

I had the original OC2. It is a bit fiddly but once you get to know it you should be fine. On a bass you can't really use it much below the lowest B or C. You do best with a neck pickup, and plucking closer to the neck. You want lots of nice fundamental frequencies and not too much of the...

That seems about the right price to me. If you add in the adapter board these are a bit cheaper but you have to solder the transistor to the adapter yourself. https://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=52

If you look on the schematic, pin 1 and pin 7 of the voltage converter are both connected to ground, so there should be continuity between them.

That is a very silly mistake to make. However, I have made it several times so no criticism ;-)

To use the audio probe, you feed sound into the input of the pedal. The ground clip of the audio probe clips to any ground connection on the pedal. I usually clip it to the solder lug for ground on the output jack - just to make sure it has a good firm connection that is also out of my way...