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What you have used on the back of the pots is perfect. That pin you are talking about is a locator pin. Some people will drill a small hole where the pin goes (often it does not need to go all the way through the case). The pin sits in the hole and means that the pot cannot rotate even if the...

OK. 2 questions 1. Do you have anything insulating the backs of the pots, especially the pot that hovers over the PCB? If not that is common failure point - the back of the pot shorts out something on the board. Electrical tape by itself doesn't work either. I know from experience that the...

Nope. carlinb17 is right. The orange wire on the output jack is soldered to the ring, not the tip. You are correct that the lug on the slant is for the shield/ground. If you look, one orange wire is on the clockwise lug from there, the other is on the anti-clockwise lug from there. from...

The behaviour of the power supply suggests a short somewhere in the pedal - the short is drawing to much current and the supply is shutting down as a protection. Did you ever go back and measure the power jack again? Your earlier post had the +ve lead 9V lower than the -ve lead, which is...

With power on, and the black lead of your multimeter on the - wire from the jack, and the red lead on the + wire from the jack what is the reading?

+ve lead: ~+3.5v -ve lead: ~+12.5v Something is very not right here. Your -ve lead should be connected directly to the case and so you should be getting 0v here. The +ve lead should then be reading about 9V

Yep, that looks better. They would probably work facing the same way (FETS are usually pretty symmetrical) but turning them backwards is technically correct. Reading the first post it seems as if the only problem with functionality you are having is with the LED? You can think of the LED as...

Looks as if NTE123 would probably work for Q1, the same way around. It won't work for Q2 or Q3 - they are FETs whereas NTE123 is a NPN.

What type of transistors are they (numerical code)? Also, problems with the LED may well be the switch - they are pretty sensitive to heat so too much time soldering can be enough to damage them. I always make sure I have spares in case.

You won't get audio signal across the bias trimmer unless the transistor is properly biassed. Measure the voltage at the collector with your multimeter and adjust the trimmer until it is somewhere in the 4.5 - 6.5 V range (depends on taste). If you aren't getting any signal across there than...

OK, by the look of it Q2 collector should be biased to between about 4.5V and 6.5V with the sundial pot set to minimum. Looking at the above, your bias is set very low. Have you tried to bias it?

I wouldn't expect signal on the far side of R1. Sounds as if you have sound on the base of Q1. Do you get sound at the base of Q2? Then what about the collector of Q2? Then follow the resistor chain R3 - Bias - Sundial. Then you are only left with C3 and the volume pot. I wouldn't go...

The Klon works by blending the clean in with the dirty signal. As you turn up the gain you get less clean blended in. If your gain works as a reverse volume it sounds as if the dirt section is just not working. I would audio probe the section from C2 to C11 and see where the signal is being lost

It would not necessarily be the spatialist algorithms, but there are collections of open source Spin FV-1 reverb algorithms on the net. You could try as many of those as you like and use your favourites. The SpinASM is free to download. You can also fin Spin CAD which comes with a whole bunch...

2 of the transistor pins are already tied together, so shorting either of those with the other pin should remove them from the circuit. Main thing to remember is that the forward voltage of the transistor + germanium diode combination is just over 1 volt. The germanium diodes alone have a...

Personally I would add a ground wire to both audio jacks. Connection to the ground on the DC jack is a good spot. If you leave one ungrounded it will ground through the case as long as there is a good mechanical connection of both jacks to the case. As soon as one of those nuts loosens off...

Sparky Mark I am going to suggest that you start a new thread specific to your issue. There are a lot of reasons why these things may not work and a lot of tests that can be run to determine where the fault could be. Rather than make guesses give us some information about your specific build...

The volume looks more problematic than the switch. Personally I don't use boards for footswitches because they are more hassle than they are worth IMO. The switch can be easily checked for continuity to make sure it is connected properly with the solder that is there.

I am not keen on the soldering of the volume pot or the footswitch

A normal soldering iron with a fine point is enough to desolder/resolder those, but I would practise first. You can get the SMD J201's from a few places.