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I didn't find any transformer's datasheet with the inductance value. I just found this chart, and this very interesting picture: Thanks for the measurements!

And what about the inductance of the TY-141P? I can't find this information.

My first Muzzle (original THAT chip, no smd), I remember, with the 4 Cable Method, I set the Threshold enough to cut the excessive noise of the distortion perdal (DIY Triple Wreck), but when I bypass the distortion the clean was fine. I hope to find my friend and try that pedal.

So your clean sound is save and not gated? Did I understand?

Your voltage measurements look very close to mine, I guess. I'll check the voltage of my PCB soon. I'm connecting the PCB following the Fortin Zuul's manual. I expected more especially from the 4 cables method with Input Key and Loop FX. What happens if you bypass the distortion getting a...

I built it again: new PCB and new THAT4301 RetroFit Module and all new parts from Musikding. But it works bad in a identical way of the first built. So I'm pretty sure I didn't make any mistake on the board. I'm following all the method in the Fortin Zuul manual to insert it in the pedal chain...

I'll take my time to mount everything, I have to include just the Key input, not the side output. With the old built there was, apparently, a bad THAT chip, unfortunately I had to solder it directly (thing I never do, but I had to, this time). Ground and +9v was ok on all the ICs, but in the...

Old thread, but I had trouble with the THAT4301 RetroFit Module, so I build the PCB again. The first time I had to used this new mini PCB I noticed that there's not enough room to fit this mini PCB because the socket IC of the LT1054, and there' not enough room to fit the SPDT next the THAT4301...

A simple DPDT On/On toggle switch is ok. Another thing: if you are working on the PedalPCB you should interrupt some trace on it, after the Q3, the side between Q3 collector and C10, R17; and interrupt the trace between Tone 2 and the negative side of C12, because will be the switch to connect...

Wait a moment... your mod doesn't sound right, to me. Like that I think you have the new signal «100nF - 150k - 100nF» in parallel with the original Tone, so I expect the Tone still do something. Look at the schematic with the Tone Bypass Mod, that is a real bypass of the tone, you need a DPDT...

I guess that 150k resistor in the middle when the tone is bypassed helps to avoid all that volume bump.

Can I have the voltage of the Muzzle's ICs, please? I think on my build the transistors voltage have sense, while the IC TL072 and the THTAT combo no much. Ground -9v and 9v seems ok, but most of the other pins show voltage close to 0.00v. My PCB sounds, it seems work nice in the pedal chain...

I still have trouble with this PCB (I received a new PCB from Musikding, but not a new THAT chip! I still didn't ask why). I tested the circuit with the a Bogner amp of my friend, and it seems work better, or even fine, I could say. With my Laney LC50, instead, it gates noise and sound at the...

I noticed that in the video the pot change the voltage just in the first half. Is that an issue or is it normal?

Thank you. That's a good advice. Do you think the first stage of this schematic makes more or less the trick? (Though, I'm not sure that is real 1:1 buffer, but it's just to understand the thing). I hope we are helping the author of the thread, too. :)

Hi Feral Feline, could you post some schematics where an added transistor stage flips the phase starting something like the simple Split'n'Blend or Buff'n'Blend? I'd like to know something small to include in fuzz pedal. Thanks!

I was thinking about a project like that in these days. Do you prefer a Blend control or a separated Clean control? I think that a Blend passes from a total clean sound to a full fuzz sound. The Clean control just add in parallel the clean to the fuzz sound always on. Anyway, what about this...

I didn't write here, but this is a thing that Tremster should consider, indeed. I advice to increase a bit of bass at a time, until the effect is right for him.

Increase the input and output cap is a good trick, but these seems to me bigger enough. You can try to replace the 68nF with a 220nF, and the 1uF to 10uF, and see if you get more bass. Maybe you should try to increase even some coupling caps, like C4 (150nF) and C9 (220nF), trying bigger caps...

I meant, maybe we can use a 9v PSU and use a regulator voltage, like a 7805 to get 5v and supply the amp circuit. While we can supply the input buffer directly with the 9v getting more headroom and less distortion?