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This has gotten me several times!

Great work, and I’ll be interested in a board also! Curious as to why you went 15 rather than 18 volt.

Wolf notes. Heck, everything I play is a “wolf” note. (That’s what the W stands for) But, you’re right, I do plan on sanding the nut down a good bit. But am waiting until I do the first string change since it would be much harder to do with the strings there. I do have the slots refined enough...

I've refined nuts on guitars for years, finally breaking down and buying some of the Japanese nut files. But this ended up being harder than I expected—both because I'm used to much thicker strings (I generally play 11s or 12s, depending on the guitar) and the .010 file I needed to use on three...

That was the first one I tried and sent back. I didn’t think the octave mini-saddles were going to adjust without falling apart. Getting an undrilled body would be a perfect solution. Very straightforward.

I forgot to mention needing to buy more tuners. Two sets... I really like the open back, Hipshot "Griplock" tuners, especially the staggered post sets they make. I decided to use different colors for the main strings and for the octaves; after tuning it today, I'm also thinking about filing some...

I used as many of the pick guard holes as I could, and had to drill 3 in different locations due ti the different shape. But with the 12 string neck mounted on, The old alignment was shown to be off (In terms of having the bridge sit exactly into the shallow cutout of the pick guard, so to get...

Yes. Those holes on a standard tele are 6 straight across, and on the gotoh 12 string bridge they're stepped, rather than straight (sort of like intonation placement of the saddles). Plus, the string to string (as a pair, center to center, is .015 wider on the tele bridge. It starts adding up...

The pickguard needed holes cut for both pickups. Since I had a tele thin line plate I used that as a pattern for the neck hole. I clamped them together and scribed a line (then filled it with dry erase marker) where I needed to dremel out the opening. I then files and sanded it to the scored...

The bridge really became a puzzle. I didn't realize that the pick guard I had, which was from Warmoth, was actually cut to receive a bridge plate exactly that size, so I put the Baritone neck back on, and stated placing it via equal distances from nut to 12th fret and Bridge to 12 th fret—then I...

I'll start with a picture. Up until about 2 months ago, this was a Baritone I had put together in 2020. In late 2021 I began to think how much I'd love a guitar that combined the open and rich sound of my Eastman carve stop (thin line, single-cut jazz box basically) with the Tele Baritone I had...

Our 3d printers had heads that a long ribbon attached to, which moved around like crazy. After about a year (of probably 8hrs per day) I began having weird print failures that I de idea were cable issues. I found (pretty sure it was Mouser) some mil spec silicon ribbon cable, and bought enough...

The Keen method works really well, SMD will be a bit of a challenge, but doable. The pedal is great, worth the effort. Get some liquid flux (the type that comes in a pen is ideal for this) and put that on the circuit board pads before you place the SMT. Put a small dab of solder on your iron...

I can’t help you, but if you’re not familiar with General Tso (Thorpy fat general) it’s a lovely, subtle always on type.

Couldn’t help you with mixing lead free and leaded, although my gut wants to say that shouldn’t make a difference. I always make sure I leave a big blob of solder on the tip whenever it’s sitting around for more than a few minutes, and always before I turn it off. I pretty much avoid lead free...

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/protoboard/ Look no further!

Watch out Florida!! A new storm heading in

That’s a great looking oat milk latte ya got there!

I did a double take at how India pale ale worked a good solder cleanser, then, (metaphorically) slapped my head. When I’ve run into solder plane issues (getting solder to flow), I’ve been able to help things along a bit with warming up the board. Initially I placed it near the incandescent...

In an odd way though, I remember the first few “small company” (before “boutique” was a thing) (HBE, Red Witch, Dr. Scientist, etc.) pedals that I bought, and thinking there was something nice about the fact that they came in plain cardboard boxes, with obviously laser printed instruction...