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I’ve tried painting knobs in the past, using automotive (catalyzed) clear coats, and they still did not wear well, so I’m willing to compromise.

Part of my acquainting myself with a new guitar is figuring out strings for it. With few exceptions, the commonalities are “round wound,” nickel or Monel, and round core. At this point my lightest strung is my Strat, 11-48 set of Pyramid Monel Classics, but with a 10.5 first. My 290 gets John...

I’m guessing here, but pretty sure that JFB is just a manufacturer’s name. From the title descriptions, the caps seem to be interchangeable.

Perfect—Brett, thank you!

Before my order comes in, trying to do designs and not sure of diameter—does anyone have any of these, that can give me a measurement?

The Mercurial’s ability to select the boosted frequency is really useful—the other circuits mentioned may also have this; I’m not familiar with them.

One of my favorite boards, configured in a package I’ve never considered. I’d love to see photos of the mini board too!

I can't give you specific brands (at least specifically for aluminum), but I think you'd want a polishing paste, at least toothpaste thick, on soft cotton pads, or something like that. When you get an even, semi-polished look to it, switch to a finer polish, maybe Semi-Chrome, and continue. When...

In the event that I want to simply polish some of these to a really, really smooth, shiny finish - how would I go about that? I assume I'd need to wet-sand using a few different sandpaper grits (ending with something incredibly fine), but then what? What kind of polish/technique would I need to...

I don’t have any experience driving Marshalls, but Chop Shop comes to mind.

As others have mentioned, I measure with calipers and then draw it up. A great trick is to print out onto clear film, and then put the film over the board and double check that youve got everything correct. If so, I’ll either tape the film onto my box (if drilling by hand or press), or, if I’m...

Aluminum is very difficult to get good paint adhesion on. In my shop we basically spray automotive lacquers, but for aluminum we always use an etching primer. This was the only primer that passed a “rub a piece of masking tape in it and pull” test. I think you can get self etching primers in...

The rheostat leg that is opposite the one that had the unsoldered wire looks like a cold solder to me. I have no idea if that could be causing the issue, but I know I’ve had all sorts of intermittent issues from “slightly” cold solders. I wonder if with a bright light and magnifying glass you...

I think @phi1 has the answer—when you say that it works with the cover off, are you getting a tremelo like sound, or is it sounding like a guitar being played? Looking at your circuit board, there’s an empty spot, with an “a” and a “k” labelled near the holes. A led goes there, with that little...

Most likely cause would be the box bottom touching something (maybe the lug from one of the sockets) and shorting it out. So, I’d start by looking at anything that might come into contact with the bottom as it gets screwed down. If it’s a part that can’t be repositioned easily, try putting two...

All this talk of dentists and mercury brings back a sweet memory of my childhood. If I needed a filling, the dentist would always give me a tiny glass vial of mercury to take home and play with—with the admonishment to my mother and I that I needed to make sure I didn't eat any of it! I'd bring...

You can also take some heat shrink and just leave the bottom 1 mm of blade exposed; obviously not as protective of shorting out stuff as "non-conductive" would be, but more user safe than an all conductive shaft would be.

I’ve got an old set of plastic adjustment “tools” that I think used to be standard for doing adjustments to trimmers in color tvs, etc. they aren’t nearly strong enough to used on screws, but I always have used them to toy with live circuit adjustments, worried about both the components’ lives...

I can’t imagine populating a board without pulling on and then bending the legs out at 45 degrees. Then, I clip them so only about 1/4 inch remains (much less heat sink, parts solder faster). The bend pulls the component lead against the copper, and also holds the part in place. Since I’m anal...

Those knobs are probably the closest similar material to insert ratio to the types of bosses we would typically be using. And m3 would be a big size for most of what we would do as “preproduction“ samples. (We were not involved in production manufacturing, except for very short (less than 100...