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I'm referring to whatever problem someone was having with a pedal dying after 10 minutes. It really sounds like an electrolytic is losing charge and crapping itself. Same thing happens with boned filter caps in old amps.

It sounds like an electrolytic has died.

I think of a name I like first then make the artwork around that, which mostly comes out totally unrelated to the name I came up with. Then I play around in illustrator, find the typeface that I think says something about the project, like if it's jagged and distorted, is it big bold clear, fat...

I wondered if I was taking crazy pills... it seemed a little too easy and I got scared. I'm also wondering about putting this little circuit on a 3pdt breakout board since I seem to get pops in some high gain circuits, even with the front/back pdr: Splicing that circuit...

...where's the led? Also make sure you're not shorting out the backs of the pots on the PCB. Since there's no dust covers it helps to cover the back in electrical tape, or use a business card sandwiched between pot backs and pcb.

It could be the switch, could be the power, could be the wiring, could be the soldering. Without pictures of the work done it's nigh on impossible to diagnose. Post up some pics dude.

Would it be feasible to just run a 1m (for example) pull down resistor from the IN the GND pads/lugs on the board to save space on the effect PCB?

Increase r7 but you'll change the tone unless you adjust c10 (which appears to be on a switch). Alternatively you can reduce r3 From 4.7k to 1k (for example), but would then need to increase c4 to 47n for the same frequency response... I think.

Nope, same thing on mine. 2 is fine.

Not that I've found. I drill out the holes to 6mm and use the black plastic clip bezels. They're easy to use and look great

Is goop just epoxy?

I use eagle for the schematics and for PCBs, then just export the gerber files as a zip which is uploaded to jlcpcb. 2 weeks later I have the PCBs. Any software that allows exporting of gerber files is all you really need. I think pedalpcb uses diptrace.

Easy, layout the PCB and get it made. Jlcpcb will do you 5 for $2.

The pot/resistance value determines how long between repeats. The 2399 gets distorted after about 350ms so most guys keep it under that to avoid distortion. Bigger pot means more delay time but more risk of introducing distorted repeats (every chip is different). I stick a 500k pot in there...

Lower vf = more distortion, compression. Less volume. Higher vf = the opposite.

Someone somewhere approved that artwork?

Nice work. Can I ask what you used for the tone stack? I'm trying to find a bmt stack to throw into something I'm working on.

Do tayda sell the milled enclosures for this circuit?

Probably a hot cake and something like a Bluesbreaker. Both triangular knob layouts. Maybe the king of tone has a drilling template I can transplant.

Specifically I'm looking to install a couple of 3 knob pedals in a 1590xx or 1590bb. I wondered if there'd be a drilling template I can just send to Tayda rather than guessing?