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I put the jumper on the main board LED pads as suggested. Still no luck. Then replaced the red 5mm LED on the brightness board, thinking I might have destroyed it. No luck. I must be too much of noob for this (stick with what you know) so I clipped FS out of the circuit and threw it in the...

I've got a followup question in the meantime regarding resistor values for this LED breakout board. I like using the standard clear LED (not the super bright) but even that LED is just too bright. That's why I wanted to try this 3pdt board. So, was the 2.2k and a 10K trimpot a good resistor...

Gotcha. I thought I'd seen someone post about a jumper for the board's LED but thought I'd post here first. Out of town till Wednesday but will reply back once I've sorted this fix. Thanks guys.

Just finished the Rockstar using a 3pdt breakout board with LED brightness control. The pedal works fine and sounds great but I've probably made a new builder error on this breakout board. It does not light up. I put a 0 ohm resistor where the 4.7k would normally go on the main board. The...

So, I got the correct values in the mail today and replaced C5 & C7. It works like a champ. Great pedal. Sounds awesome. As a new builder I don't understand enough about these circuits to know when I can fudge on some of the values and when I can't. Obviously this one required exact values. I...

Ok great! Thanks for getting back.

New builder here. I've had the Rock Star on my wishlist but have been waiting for the build docs. How do you know what component values to use without the docs when they're not printed on the board? Thx

Going to do a parts order soon. Will replace C5 and C7 with the exact values then if you think that's part of the problem.

So, since I used a 680n (no 820s on hand) would could that be part of the problem? Also, since I'm coming clean, I was out of 56n and used a 47n. Everything else is as it should be.

It looks pretty clean to me. Am pretty meticulous with trying to make good solid solder joints and I always use a toothbrush with rubbing alcohol at the end. Could I have fried the switch when soldering?

Thanks for getting back so quickly. Here we go.

Just finished the Distortr build. Everything works well except the 3 way switch. The up position sounds awesome. The mid and lower position make a very low volume fizzy sound. Have checked the position of the switches and they are correctly placed Any thoughts on what the issue may be...

Robert, I just ran across this thread. I ordered the Celestial Drive back in June 2022. Couldn't get it to work no matter how many times I tried to troubleshoot. I've done about 50 builds at this point and feel pretty good about my work. So, I'm wondering if maybe my Celestial board is from that...

Robert, I just ran across this thread. I ordered the Celestial Drive back in June 2022. Couldn't get it to work no matter how many times I tried to troubleshoot. I've done about 50 builds at this point and feel pretty good about my work. So, I'm wondering if maybe my Celestial board is from that...

Any chance the build docs will pop up soon?

Just replaced the 100k with the 25k and the 1n with a 2.2n. Dead on sweet even tone. I really dig it now. Thanks for the input and suggestions.

About to build the Champ Stamp but still not sure based on this thread what to use as a sub for BAT48. Could get one from Mouser I believe but would think there's some diode I already have on hand I could use. Any sub suggestions? Thx

Ok I will alligator clip a 33k in place first and give it a listen. If it's still a bit trebly would you suggest upping the values on C1 & C7? If so, what values would you suggest? Thanks for posting!

The Urushiol I've built is a smokin' little box but is a bit too trebly. I'm sure that's how the original design was intended but I wouldn't mind experimenting with some other cap values to thicken up the brew. I'm thinking C1 and C7 are the caps to work with but honestly I'm still pretty new at...

Gotcha. I just placed a Tayda order and added the 9V diodes. Thanks for the input.