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Awesome thanks! I might give that a tryout looks great.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/JIUWU-Combination-Composite-Drilling-Tapping/dp/B07MD85BX4 You are creating threads to screw the amp jewel into?

It sure does! How do you secure the amp jewel to the enclosure? They have threads that screw into the amp face right?

I am pretty sure that on mine unity is at the center detention. I will double check.

The T7 says that the ESR is 0.46 ohms and 0.43 ohms. Is that low? I also noticed that if I kept them in and re-test, the number goes up. After an about a minute they got up to 0.62 and .0.57. Is that normal?

I picked up a couple of 10u 25v caps today from a local shop. I’m lucky that there’s something like this close by for the times I screwed up in ordering parts. Thought it would be good to not use the caps I already have because I’m sure they are also from Tayda. I’m going to replace C8 and see...

Sorry that is what I meant. With the toggle in the LED position: Pin 1 & 2 = 1.3 ohms Pin 2 & 3 = nothing On the 1N4148 position: Pin 1 & 2 = nothing Pin 2 & 3 = 1.3 ohms

Oh, btw, I was getting 1.3 ohms on pin 1&2 and nothing on pin 2&3 in the LED selection. And the opposite in the 1N4148 selection. I am calling pin 1 the upper most one. Does that suffice that it is not the toggle that is the problem?

You are definitely not confident about that 10u cap! The cap and LEDs are easy enough to replace. Even for me! I have more 10u electrolytics but they are most likely also from Tayda. I dont have any 3mm LEDs at the moment however.

I'd say they from Tayda.

I like it too! That LED selection was one of the reasons why I wanted to build the Lab Rat. I mean, I would have built it anyway but... I have no problem removing the LEDs. I've removed many components successfully at this point. It's just the switch that gives me a little pause.

I am hesitating on this to think for a minute, Although I think I could handle sucking the solder out and removing the toggle switch I have never done one before. I have done pots which also use an abundance of solder. I know that more interventions increases the risk of damage to the PCB. And...

This would be removing the LEDs and toggle from the circuit, so just using the SI diodes? If it operates normally, as it does when selected to the SI diodes, it would localize the problem to the LEDs or toggle, or their current soldering, yes?

1.3 Maxing the volume on the iPad I only get less than a volt on the tip of the input jack so that’s not good. But here’s the DC and AC measurements on pin #2: DC .83 AC 2.75

I have a tone generator app on my iPad that I can choose 1000Hz but I don’t see any adjustment options for voltage. Am I going get one that has that feature? Also, I don’t have and have never used a signal generator. Are there apps or do I need hardware?

Looking over this again I realized I measured the wrong group of pins slightly. D’oh! Here, let’s try this again: Pin 1 - 147 Pin 4 - 0 Pin 5 - 8 Pin 6 - 242 After 5 minutes: Pin 1 - 149 Pin 4 - 0 Pin 5 - 8 Pin 6 - 238

After replacing the tube and testing, I let it sit for an hour and I plugged in and got this: Pin 1 - 151 Pin 2 - 0 Pin 4 - 0 Pin 6 - 239 Leaving it plugged in for about 5 minutes I got: Pin 1 - 149 Pin 2 - 0 Pin 4 - 8 Pin 6 - 238 After another 5 minutes I got the same results

Changing the tube didn’t fix the issue. The DC jack has 9.13 and the cathode of the 1N5817 is 8.78. So that seems all normal,right?

Yes thank you! When I asked about "checking supply voltages" and the tube's "heater voltage" I meant literally, lol. Where do I measure? I assume with the DMM. I started as building pedals with no soldering or electrical experience 6 years ago and even though I have learned a lot from this...

Yeah, the supply voltages have never been checked. I it worked upon building it so assembling it wad the last thing I did before it started exhibiting this issue. How would one check supply voltages, and if the tube's heater voltage remain constant over time, and if the other voltage supplies...