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I don't know how up to date the info I have is but what value should R50 be in the parts list I've got it's 150K on your pcb it's 470K that looks to be part of the LFO circuit I didn't check beyond finding that so if you haven't already check all component values and orientation are correct...

Try reflowing the 3PDT lug solder joints first just hold your iron on each joint for around 6 seconds until you see the solder flow take a few seconds between each lug to allow it to cool once done check if you get bypass signal The top row you won't get continuity between input and output...

Yes red lines just show signal route in bypass mode Just to clarify you said this: I have attached the pics of the two jacks, the input stereo blu lead goes into the BI and the I now goes into the IN of the PCB, ditto for the output jack but with BO / O. Are you saying you've soldered the...

It means you're bypassing the 3PDT switch and jacks ie joining the two cables making one cable from guitar to amp if you take the cables out of the jacks and touch the tips together you'll get the same thing *EDIT* just re read your post jacks go to I and O pcb to BI and BO ( board in and board...

I wouldn't worry about your pots just yet once you get sound, looking at your pot solder joints you should be able to get them out with a solder sucker if you've got one

Check your stereo input jack you should get bypass regardless of power or whether you've got your jacks backwards Make sure you haven't accidentally mistaken the ring connection used for the battery ground with the tip connection just stick a jack in and trace the tip connection round to its...

It connects like this so as I say if you flip it, it's symmetrical so crossing your wires over as you have means the input signal from the in jack connects to the pcb out so won't go through the circuit Do you get bypass signal? if not that indicates another fault *When I said previously flip...

It doesn't matter if the 3PDT pcb is flipped wire it as normal it's symmetrical You've probably got the jacks the wrong way around If you get bypass flip the cables around and that'll confirm the jacks need swapped then just wire the in's to the left and outs to the right All your component...

Did you get all your ICs from reputable suppliers All your component values and orientation that I can see look correct I can't fully see R49 the 1M which forms a voltage divider for Q3 with R48 I've no clue how it all works but I'd suggest getting the audio probe out now that you've got the...

These are US based https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/217974734/hammond-1590b-1590g-1590a-1550p-1590bb https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252002426535?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=TclrzJJ_TIq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=VraIHHfoTvS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Might even be the same seller

Just continuity check it to the transistor body they are normally ground if it beeps it's ground and you can just snip it off as @music6000 said

My meter had an intermittent beep and worked when I pushed the leads in more securely I changed the probes and its been fine since I did examine the probe sockets and one wasn't quite snapping in securely the metal part in the probe socket was faulty although I can't remember exactly what the...

That's a really nice looking build it looks very professional inside..I like it indeed I do

Yeah I'd agree with @Ale_jellybelly Klaus is always very good at sorting any problems his customer service is excellent The IC I've got for it is labelled Atmel 10u TINY25v 2036174 hopefully that means more to you than it does to me

What are you using to power the pedal

Sounds like it might potentially be a voltage regulator problem Possibly shutting down automatically Did you check the power circuit for components heating up or just the FV1 board

What diagram did you use, post a pic of your build somebody might spot something to save you re-doing it all

I can't see it clearly but looks like you've got 9v going to the DC jack middle battery lug

You've peaked my interest haha I've never heard of them they might be useful maintaining a reference voltage etc there's info here, as you'll see they're low current devices so I'm not sure how useful they'd be...

It's a precision micropower shunt voltage reference whatever that is! https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LM4040C50ILPR?qs=xRTSnXjzBs7TlZDUKCJl6w%3D%3D&mgh=1&vip=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvL-oBhCxARIsAHkOiu2avdHz6zKGEHTxt0GCU8AtGXNAvWEz8y5NZmRIs6VWsROveR5YMboaApUdEALw_wcB