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That looks good It is a fairly complex build but as said take your time, don't rush it and hopefully it'll fire right up I don't want to throw too much info your way but to answer your question not all the pads connect to ground what you actually do is reference the schematic to see how...

No probs I've checked the low tide pcb I've got and @jwin615 has it exactly correct where you want to solder your jumper Looking at the topside IC pins are numbered like this https://drive.google.com/file/d/1beWhPZjpm9i5bKVywJ0kg-F3q03S1qD-/view?usp=drivesdk If you use your IC socket it'll...

As @jwin615 says solder your IC socket in, then solder one side of your jumper to pin 3 of the socket on the underside of the pcb and the other side of the jumper to the capacitor side that doesn't connect to ground (continuity check the capacitor solder joints with ground so you solder your...

Haha You've actually raised my interest in them, they're pretty cheap little microcontrollers

From what I can see there appears to be no mistakes With my vero builds it's usually a reflow or 10 of solder joints that sorts it out, which I'm assuming you've already done I only use vero if I absolutely have to, it gives me involuntary shudders that stuff I know nothing about the IC but...

A quick unscientific test you can do is touch the transistors with your finger to see if that dampens the oscillating that may lead you to the culprit if it is an oscillating transistor With 2 and 3 joined on the sag pot you'd increase resistance across the pot as you turn it CW have you tried...

I feel for ya Is the relay dead I've got radio silence from two notes they did say they'd ask the boss on Monday if I could get the schematic seeing as it's discontinued but nothing yet Always worth trying the manufacturer I didn't even think relay until they mentioned it Just do what I do...

You can check the relay Look at the relay datasheet to see what type it is, the expected coil resistance and wiring diagram showing how it connects You can check that and depending on what type it is SPDT, DPDT etc you can also continuity check the NC contacts have continuity with the armature...

Bottom line is there's absolutely no need for you to stop posting in fact you should keep your mind occupied and stay amongst us like minded DIYers Like a lot of things if you aren't going through it or have never been through it you'll never understand what it's like Finger wagging is a...

Hopefully you'll get through it all especially for your kids I went through a nasty divorce 17 years ago and ended up losing everything The only thing that kept me going was my boys, speaking to my sis made me realise they were in this situation through no fault of their own and as children...

As @KR Sound says all your resistors and components that can be seen look to be the correct value and orientation Check your in and out connections from the pcb to 3PDT pcb they look a little dodgy, from what you say your jack tip connections seem to be OK ie you get full bypassed signal So...

The 5 pads are to accommodate different types of trimmers and the small pads are to allow you to use smd transistors

Try continuity checking it With a jack plugged into the input socket check the ground connection on the actual battery snap has continuity to ground Check if the first 2 input jack socket connections ground and ring have continuity and check the battery snap power connection has continuity...

Barrys got them only 2 sets left though https://guitarpcb.com/product/2n5952-quad-set/

Now that's a stunner looks fantastic

This is about the closest I can find Which you've probably seen https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/enclosures/1590b-style-1/glimmer-brown-sugar-style-aluminum-diecast-enclosure.html But you better be fast there's only 398884 left

Try reflowing C100 the 220u filter cap Griffin effects covers a few potential causes here https://griffineffects.com/info/troubleshooting/why-is-my-guitar-pedal-popping

The bass and treble are active looking at the schematic so they'll both cut and boost the tone If you've got any incorrect caps or resistors in the part of the circuit it will affect it but in may just be the fact that they cut and boost the frequencies that make the taper appear weird What...

Hopefully that's it R34 would likely cause a wee bit of muddyness I think and R55 would defo drop the output a tad But I'm not sure on your voltage readings check the voltage you get on D102 cathode if the charge pumps doubling voltage I'd expect 16v ish there and check IC5.2 pin 7 for what...

R14 looks like 470K not 470R I didn't check anything after that double check all your resistor values by colour band