Search results

Here's voltages of my working one Voltage in 9.04v IC1 1. 4.36 2. 4.36 3. 3.92 4. 0 5. 4.34 6. 4.32 7. 4.38 8. 8.72 IC2 1. 1.61 2. 1.61 3. 1.61 4. 0 5. 3.23 6. 3.23 7. 0 8. 3.23 9. 1.55 10. 1.49 11. 0 12. 0 13. 3.21 14. 3.23 15. 3.23 16. 0 17. 0 18 0 19. 0 20. 0.44 21. 2.17 22. 3.24 23. 3.24...

If your in Europe I'm in Scotland I don't mind sending you a couple think I had around 400 last time I looked so I can spare a couple with the right hFE and leakage I saw yer Reddit post I'm on there now and again

I was going to suggest what @Robert said but for enlightenment here's an old schematic that shows what looks like the DPDT connections on the output you could continuity check yours to see if it's the same Middle I'd assume one to out tip the other to ground / sleeve One outer lug not...

I use this for any PCB I'm not a big fan of 3PDT Pcbs so rarely use them (not that there's anything wrong with them) It's basically the same as the ppcb method and as @spi says pretty universal I find it easier to remember INs left pole, OUTs right pole, LED middle pole As for guitarpcbmania...

Yes that's right

You want the FET gates set to about 2 to 2.5v to get you around the sweet spot Set it via the trimmer with speed fully CCW Just for reference if I'm unsure of voltages or can't work them out from the schematic I'll check general guitar gadgets version they always include voltages in their...

Have you tried reflowing the jumper between 3PDT lugs 1 and 6 the reason I ask is I built a copy of the '74 phase 90 on an etched board which popped, so added a 1M input pulldown still popped then tried one on the output still popped eventually put the link on the 3PDT and the pop was gone...

I used 92 hFE with low leakage for the Crimson drive I built a while ago

Q1 base looks like it lacks solder As said re bias Q2 collector to around 4.5v ish set the sundial so you get 9v on lug 1 (fully CCW) then use the bias trimmer to set Q2 collector to 4.5v *Edit I should say set the sundial to 9v ish that depends on what your power supply puts out and the...

You could add a cut off diode pin on the 9v row in place of the 9v wire to secure it to the DC jack It was more just to share this method I found it easy with diode pins being nice and stiff to position and secure it in place on the side wall

As long as both pins are fed 9v it doesn't really matter have a look at the MAX1044 or 7660S datasheets they have pretty good explanations in their typical applications of how it works I used my polarity protection diode as a kinda on board connection to the DC jack to secure the inverter board...

I like it, I like it a lot great looking build

I think it's R5 (10K) you should be probing not R2 (220K) as in your pic

Do a check of your voltages Check what voltage the regulators putting out should be 5v to pin 1 of the brick and 0v to pins 2 and 4 From your description your problem appears to be on the wet signal side But no harm in checking all your VREF points on the schematic where you should get half...

Is R101 47K might just be the reflection but the 4th band looks orange (470K) instead of red (47K)

I couldn't remember @chongmagic so I asked Cees the man himself (Skidmark): Hi Billy, the switches for trails and wet only are the (normal) on-on type.

Sounds like a mis biased transistor if you're having to dig in to get sound Your pictures out of focus so can't really see your resistor colour bands clearly Check values of transistor biasing resistors on each transistor collector, base, emitter I can't see for certain but R13 and 15 look...

Usually 4.5v for the 5089 collector and 5v ish for the 5457 drain FETs aren't always consistent so start with the drain at 5v and see how you like it Measure the collector and drain pins referenced to ground start with the trimmer halfway and adjust as required

Are you building it with the cleft mod? If so The small tab on the silkscreen indicates the 2N1308 emitter pin Your MPSA13s are soldered in the wrong way around you want flat side to the bottom curved to the top The 2N1306 would indeed be a suitable substitute for the 1308

Nice looking build the wiring looks good to me I love this circuit and I've built around 10 Just for info the drill guide in the build doc is just there for the board mounted pots so you get your measurements correct rather than be a template for enclosure type, all of Barry's boards use...