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Yes. Your sine wave is an ideal voltage source referenced to ground. It has zero output impedance and it's connected to the same node as your bias resistor which is not zero. So that node is forced to sit at ground no matter what. Either reference your sine wave to -12V as well or add a coupling...

You need a coupling capacitor before R1, otherwise the gate will not sit at the correct voltage.

Can those germaniums actually do anything configured like in the schematic? When one is forward biased the other is reverse biased, so it's essentially an open circuit. Reverse breakdown voltage should be much too high to come into effect for them. You can swap the 100 pF for a higher value to...

The Rangemaster circuit looks sound. VOL1 is kind of superfluous because GAIN1 does pretty much the same thing, but other than that it should work. Maybe a mixup with transistor pinouts?

True. C100 is before the charge pump though, so 35V is unnecessary here.

It's only going to see the 9V from your power supply, so anything rated 16V and up is fine.

Do you have continuity between power ground and ground on the breakout board? Can you make a photo of your DC jack wiring?

Same. My drilling actually got more precise and faster once I stopped using the clamp on the drill press because it's way easier to make small adjustments on the fly.

Cool project! How about a demo? :cool: The SS-140C has been on my to-do list for a couple of months now, but unlike you I'm a lazy slob so I got nothing so far except for LTSpice simulations. I don't think the high/low input switch is correct in your pedal schematic. The switching jacks in the...

The Marshall Valvestate VS100 has a "Power Dimension" switch. It seems like the circuit is supposed to emulate some of the characteristics of a tube output section. There's a phase splitter, JFET gain stages for the two signals to simulate phase inverter and/or output tube distortion, a...

It's more to prevent the transistor from falling out of the socket. I've soldered transistors directly into their sockets before when I couldn't be arsed to remove the socket. It's fine and doesn't require much heat and solder.

I've had good experiences with Aion FX overall. The layouts are nice and the boards are high quality. Some hate the daughterboards, I personally don't mind. Give them a try :)

This was drilled by hand. Relative spacing between the potentiometer drill holes is the same as the drill template but it's vertically offset overall.

Nice, looks clean. I like the black on raw aluminum aesthetic.

I feel for the guy in the Reddit post, truly, but at the same time saying stuff like "I think most people, outside of the most conservative planners, were caught off guard by this" just seems kind of oblivious. The pandemic comes around and everybody and their mother starts getting into DIY...

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I wasn't aware of either of these types of washers. I'll give them a try if I can find some, although your point about the minimal thread count on standard jack nuts being an issue seems very valid. Maybe the answer is moving to PCB-mounted jacks. The same concerns apply but in my mind...

Good solution. I don't mind jacks coming loose for pedals I build for myself, but pedals I actually sell I'd rather turn bullet-proof as much as possible, that was the initial idea behind the lock washers.

I recently got some 3/8" internal tooth lock washers thinking they should help with 1/4" jacks coming loose over time but it seems they actually perform worse when it comes to rotational forces. I use Rean NYS229 and Lumberg KLBM 3 jacks exclusively and both seem to have better grip without lock...

Should be jumpered when using an 1144 charge pump. These normally have a switching frequency around 10 kHz, but connecting pins 1 and 8 allows you to boost the oscillator frequency well outside of the audio band.