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The core sound is great. Sounds real good turned down cleanish, but fuzzy if you dig in. Seems to cover a good gain range for me, and has some nice character. I would have guessed the sag control was going to be more extreme, but I also haven’t watched any demos yet or spent a lot of time with...

Plus an extra bird-related shoutout to @rwl for recommending the bird based tabletop game Wingspan. Played my first full game last night for New Years. I lost pretty bad, but it’s a great game.

I thought I was going to post the first build report of 2026, but looks like @rwl just beat me to it! I'm always excited to check out a new bird-pedal though, so that's cool. I also had a note to shout out @rwl and @temol for some helpful posts I read while putting this chop shop together re...

Same here

You're doing it right. Step bits are the best for thin materials with anything more than very small holes. Because the step bit is only making a small cut at each step, it's less likely to do the thing where it grabs and tries to break your wrist or fling the enclosure across the room. If you...

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/ua741cp-ua741-741-ic-op-amp.html

What are you using now?

You’re gonna look suspicious wearing one of those when it’s 70 out on Christmas

Correct, high voltage is fine. We’re all reasonably sure we did it right until it doesn’t work. 🤣 Best use of your time at this point is to assume nothing and re-check everything. Doesn’t take as long as you’d think.

If the signal path is connected to ground, I’d usually start by looking for something touching where it shouldn’t be. Solder bridges, wires touching, etc. Like Jimi says, correct components and complete solder joints are the right place to start if you don’t see an obvious mechanical problem...

I would be disappointed in your use of a time machine on both counts.

If it works in bypass, but goes dead when you engage it, it’s possible your signal is getting shorted to ground somewhere. While you’re checking continuity to ground, you could check whether the in/out wires become connected to ground when you hit the switch. Also, looks like you used a metal...

Are your electrolytics in the right spots? If the large black ones are 100u, and the smaller blue ones are 10u, then C4 and C2 might be swapped.

Depending on the batch and supplier, I’ve had a lot of those lenses that fit perfectly in a 1/4 inch hole. I think that’s what they’re spec’d for. This one was a perfect fit and I didn’t worry about any additional retention. Those little clips that look like they’re for much thicker material...

Sweet paint! Did you get that in a rattle-can? Or are you a fancy paint-guy?

Thanks! That's nice of you to say. Turns out you're not vicious at all!

I added a bunch of overdrives to my wish list about a year ago when there was a "favorite overdrives" thread going, and I'm just getting around to building some of them. I haven't spent a ton of time with this yet, but so far I like it a lot. I've mostly been into lower gain sounds lately, and...

Flux is definitely the key to using braid. I've used some fancy stuff with good flux in it, but the cheap raw stuff also works great if you flux it. I just give it a swipe with a liquid flux pen and it's good to go.

25 builds in 2025 so far! 5 favorites: PPCB Low tide and Telurian Schutone DM-3 Tape Delay and Troglodyte from Aleph Null

Should be pretty foolproof. I don’t think there’s an option to order a hydra without the eeprom. If you look at the product description it says it’s included. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb238/ https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/6-1-4/