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Thanks for the leads Feral. I’ll probably try the company and see if they can give me a part number or a replacement part number. And no, it’s not an apparition: it’s the same part in my zoom pd-01 that I don’t want to cannabalize. It sounds really good, depending on how you use it, and your...

Here’s a few more pictures with metric units and a top view

It’s a 6 pin switch. I found the manufacturer in another switch type but not this. It’s quite small and has a pcb pin footprint. I’ll get more info later.

Attached is a picture of the Zoom switch for on/off. I had it working, and it’s now seemingly gone kaput. I know you super sleuths can find it! (I did check but no dice)

Pickups are nothing more than really big inductors (not directly, but ya know)

/looks at this work of art /looks at own pile of pedals /frowny face Dude, you’re killing it. You know how to find the right aesthetic for each circuit you build.

Seeing this thread popping up makes me wonder if I need to gut a wah and stick-ify it. Wait, we all know the answer.

If they don’t work, I’ll dispose of them for you. :)

TL;DR — I am dumb, overpopulated the board, jammed up the voltages, and caused pedal no worky. Pulled extra components and read correctly = pedal worky. Some of you may have been following along with The Idiot’s Guide to Building A Deeptronic Freeze Pedal. Today, we finish the guide. Final...

There’s space, but it makes me nervous because the tab has the 3.3V flowing through it. I put heat shrink on it for safety. I’ll post a build report since it’s up and running.

Awesome. I like the art of the pedal in the upper right. Upper middle reminds me of the purple/orange you get at sunset around here.

I turbo-dumbed it again. Grabbed the wrong regulator. All the voltages are correct.

Update: Positives — voltages are better by the TL072. Nothing weird happening. Have to remember to put a ground wire from the audio ground area to the DC jack ground (it’s still on my workbench and not boxed). Case in point: RTFM. Negative — still weird voltages off the voltage regulator...

That’s good enough for a keeper for me! Regarding the LfO.. so, I have a version that is partially SMD, partially through hole that had an LFO that stalled. Your first choice to go film caps seems to be a good first step. Second would be to look at the transistor and make sure it has enough...

I bought a cheap Aneng M108. It helped me calibrate my flintlock so far. Hasn’t helped me figure out the audio issues…

Weyulllllll. Maybe I overstuffed it and couldn’t read. Sometimes me do dumb. Lemme reread and repopulate the board.

Here’s a couple pictures. Ignore the terribleness of the pots, etc. I’ll get those cleaned up once it gets boxed. Left is back side, right is top side. DC comes in from the upper right. Odd thing: tying the 1/4” jack ground to DC ground causes the voltage divider for the TL072 to go from...

Okay, here we go. New 2n5457. Have sound through the pedal! But it’s really really muffled. So far, I have the clocks and frequency calibrated, but I’m still losing audio/minimal output right around Q1. I did replace the diodes, checked the resistors, etc. I had just temporarily put the 2n5457...

I’ll see if I can get them tomorrow. I’m starting on the Flintlock Flanger first. Progress, but still beating my head.

Update: still weird. I’ll post more, but with no regulator in, all 3 pins get full voltage. Voltage divider doesn’t hit 4.5V. Putting in the new regulator outputs nothing. This is a weird one. I’m thinking it’s coming down to the Audio Ground and Digital Ground needing to be tied together at...