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well, i went over it again and i couldn't find any errors, so i'd say it's good to go. attached version with components removed/layout of trace cuts and jumpers. (no changes to the initial layout above)

1) its hard to tell from these photos whether there are any errors, or potential inadvertent solder bridge shorts, as most of these are not well focused. this looks like a short (but im guessing it's just a big blob..) 2) we need to see the other side of the board. 3) it is difficult to...

with water under a tap

note, these Ge diodes here aren’t necessarily clippers. ive been told here that they’re intended to serve as a crude noise gate.

look for D9E or other D9x diodes or 1N270 or any other Ge diode that measures around 0.33v it doesn’t have to be 1N34A

i haven't tried the ionosphere, but looking at the schematic, it only has x2 gain stages, so i'm not surprised this was your experience. regardless, i'm pretty impressed with this psi fuzz thing. i still need to double check this layout against the schematic when im fresh and not burnt out...

what about the skreddy muffs

yeah if you like the og opamp muff (however modified), i'd be surprised if you didn't dig the psi fuzz. will be curious to see how the moon / noctis fuzz compares https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb723/ it's certainly versatile. if you like that, you'll probably enjoy just about any muff that...

yeah idk why, massively overhyped imo. probably because the enclosures are big and pretty, sometimes with an aesthetic very similar to the og that it’s taken circuit design cues from. and they do look good, i love big box enclosures and i’d totally buy one if the circuit wasn’t so meh.

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/kineticfuzz/ - intentionally large layout for 1/2W size resistors and thicc caps - unverified (build pending)

ok so i finally got around to this one a couple weeks ago. holy crap. it’s the best opamp muff or fuzz i’ve tried yet. i was suspicious of the npn Ge addition, but turns out it’s awesome. and a heckin loud output. nothing i had tried previously could beat an og opamp muff, but this one does...

+1 breadboard the circuit. tbh breadboarding is actually easier than building a pedal of the same circuit. there’s no solder involved, so it’s really really really easy to fix an error. start with an LPB-1 and then go from there.

TL072 LF353 NE5532 LM1458 4558 literally any dual opamp will work. (personally i wouldn't bother with the OPA2134 for a drive circuit) as mentioned above, if you use an 8-pin IC socket (or build the circuit on a breadboard) you can then audition any one of these opamps to determine which you...

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/axial-ferrite-bead-76-ohm.html im guessing these will probably do it

no worries, we all have our errors 🤙

this will definitely fuck up Q3's idle bias. once you've corrected this, check Q3c again. shouldn't matter at all. doesn't matter. 100n is 100n, they should perform the same in this circuit.

yeah something's going on, you should be able to dial it around 4.5v (although it's a taste thing, i prefer around 5v) what value is the bias trimpot? we will need clear, in-focus, detailed photos of both sides of the board/build to determine this.

+1 this is how the jack needs to be hooked up: also - from the photos, it doesn't appear that all of your ground wires have continuity with each other. they should. - great way to do this is to ensure that all ground wires meet at the input jack sleeve.

unfortunately buying opamps from amazon will be as likely to land genuine units as me shooting a 3-point basket blindfolded. it's probably the only component type (ICs) in this entire game where using genuine parts matters. please install some genuine opamps.