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… with leather

I'm a sucker for 80's chorus tones, and have built many PT2399-based chorus pedals. But the thing that irks me every time I use these pedals is the predelay/slapback effect you always get with these circuits. Some designers exploit that as a feature (e.g., the EQD Sea Machine's Dimension and...

This Forum is a fantastic resource for a fantastic hobby, but I always like to suggest that when building these boards, don't just view it as an exercise in "painting by numbers". Need a resistor substitute? Look for a parallel/series calculator, and see what the formula is while you're there...

Any chance you have a bad Volume pot? Had a similar issue with my Kliche Mini, and that was it.

I just looked at my latest Kliche build with Tayda TL072s - no indent (and sounds pretty fantastic!). I guess it can be a crap-shoot with Tayda.

Update: After reading @Cybercow’s post above, this looks like the same post. If yes, nice write-up! By the way, a respected pedal builder on a Facebook group posted this week about a batch of pedals he’d just built which exhibited the same issue with the Tayda TL072s. Here’s his post:

If that's the case, then PedalHacker also has 2.2nF WIMA caps - https://www.pedalhackerelectronics.com/searchresults.asp?searching=Y&sort=13&search=0022&show=30&page=1&cat=1878

These guys carry high quality parts, and shipping is quick: https://www.pedalhackerelectronics.com/WIMA-fkc-2-fkc2-0027uf-capacitors-polycarbonate-p/fkc2-0027.htm

My recent Kliche Mini has a higher noise floor than I'd like. It's definitely not bad, but the noise/hiss/hum is there, starting from about 10 o'clock. Which components would likely be the main culprit of noise? I know it's likely a combination of components, but without replacing/rebuilding...

That could work. Just be really careful when desoldering the pot - they can be really stubborn to remove, as there’s a lot of metal there. Cut off as much of the protruding pins as possible, so less to slide out. It’s actually easier to remove the entire pot than trying to remove the two outside...

Yes, solder wire leads to the pot, and instead of board-mounting it, solder the wires to the board. Then you can move the board where ever you want, and leave the pot in place. Just snip the legs off the pot. You have a ton of space in that enclosure, relative to the side of the board.

Bingo!

By the way, how do I get the fancy SOLVED icon to show on the thread list? Or is that an admin-only function?

I’ve never bothered checking pots in the past - just caps, resistors and transistor hfe (if relevant). But now that I think of it, a mechanical device like a potentiometer has higher likelihood of failure. Also, I happened to measure two dual-gang 100K pots for a Kliche build this week - one...

1 bad apply shouldn’t leave a bad taste in my mouth, but for an extra $0.11 per pot, I think I’ll go back to Alpha.

Solved! Bad Gain pot, as suspected. Verified that measuring across lugs 1 and 3 give me infinite resistance (I expected 100K). New pot... works as expected.

Are all your transistor legs making full contact with their sockets? I find that occasionally one of the legs doesn't make contact, and if I put pressure on the transistor, suddenly everything works. Just something to test.

Great idea. Where did you order it from, if you don't mind me asking.

Been a while since I've built with PedalPCB boards - they're too easy - I like to fight with vero! ;) Anyway, after the trouble I described in the Troubleshooting forum with my Glory Hole (ouch! - someone had to say that!) - I figured I'd redeem myself with a Klone build last night. This Kliché...

That's what I suspect. First time I've used the Tayda-branded pots, so maybe a bad one. I'll try to replace it tonight.