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From reading up on a few posts, LDR matching can be very important. (E.g. Phase II as @Chuck D. Bones wrote in #5 here). Is it mostly important to match the light or the dark resistance? Or is that very situation dependent? I am looking at Xenotron build...

I double posted this question on another forum as well. And since then I have come up with a possible solution, so here it is: I think I have figured out as much as that the wires in the wiring schematic from AionFX doc would need to "desolder" the wire+pad labelled: Jack In, Snd, Ret and Jack...

Did you manage to find out the problem an solve it?

Thanks! I'll raise the LEDs a little bit.

I found this thread very useful when building my Tso, so even if I am quite late to the thread I will still share my finding. I had green dimmed and green a bit brighter LEDs to try out. For some reason I wanted the clearer one to the right to be the "best", but the dimmed one gave more...

In the Aion FX Gladiator build the two sides or channels are in fixed order. (TubeScreamer type in to BluesBreaker type) Still they are separate so that there is an input and output for each of the sides. There is also Send and Return but that seems to live its own integrated life. Looking at a...

FWIW II: I managed to get some 63/37 0.5mm and a chisel shaped tip. I think the 0.5 leaded solder does the trick. No real issue with ground plane and it flows through nicely to the other side. With the unleaded it is quite different. I might be able to up my skills and work on with unleaded, at...

This is probably obvious and I might have misundrestood your problem, but I often wire the LEDs so I can put them where I want them. EDIT: I cut the LED legs short but enough to stick out some from the bezel plastic plug-in (?), solder on wire and cover with some heatshrink tube. And then the...

Sure, thanks. I just noticed: Stock, 4xstock, 9xstock were noticeable for bass effect. Probably enough for tolerance differences to not play any major part.

Thanks! I just happened to have 470n, 1.5u and 2.2u in my drawer. Outnof curiosity though, would my initial idea work as well? And a 1M would be enough for pop reduction say between 1 and 2 pins on dpdt? I understand that other caps and spdt is preferred, but I just wanted to learn if my idea...

Thanks for the pop tip. I guess on the dpdt version, 1 M will be enough?

Thanks, but I wanted C5, C5 + Ca, C5 + Ca + Cb. As the options. So one default, then two, then all three. Maybe I wasn't that clear about that. Sorry.

I think I figured it out, so posting a sketchy drawing for closure/the archeologists.

Sorry for being a bit late to the show... I was wondering about the C5 increase: I tested with 1500nF in parallel with C5, making it about 2uF in total, and I also added 2.2uF in parallel to get to 4uF+, and I felt both setting were good, some bass increase and a bit more again. Is there a way...

FWIW: It works better now. I have a little bit of 63/37 or 60/40 around, and with raised temp it works better. It is also better when doing 3PDTs and others with more leg mass where long heating time can make the plastic overheat. I use a "hoofed" tip and got the advice to press the flat on the...

Did you figure out a new value for the CLR that put the Rate LED "straight"?

I looked through the Dandy Horse project to figure out where the bypass/on-off led goes and its LEDR. But I couldn't find it in docs or pics here nor on the PCB. Is it just manually set on the 3PDT? There was a location on the drill template so I assumed it would be on the PCB. I also saw the...

Great!

Sorry, my bad. All points taken and again thanks!

Thanks, All good points and at least I will try to adhere to the tips given. There is still an itch left as to why @bechbox had the same ones reappearing. And also the high percentage of ground pads. If it was only oxidation issues then the problem would be more general and evenly distributed. Imho.