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It looks like Coda used a 4PDT switch to switch 4 values at the same time. In the picture, it's easiest to see what is happening with R22. A blue wire links the center of the switch to one R22 pad. Then depending on whether the switch is UP or DOWN determines which of the 2 resistors is in...

The feedback caps are different too. It’s small, 430 vs 470, but you might hear a difference if you socket them. I haven’t built either one, I’m just guessing.

LM13700 and 2x TL072?

This probably makes sense. I’m not OCD or very neat. Which can provide challenges. Great job!

That’s what I did. For less than 5 dollars you can buy a good size board and a pile of leds and resistors. By the time you fill up the board, you’ll go from complete beginner to making confident connections. We’ve all made a cold joint, then outright lied to our own face “I’m sure it’s fine”...

That red one… “Pedal, please pass my signal.” “I’m sorry Dave, I’m afraid I can’t do that.”

I haven’t built any of the pedals for you listed, but the Titania looks like the simplest. Maybe start a troubleshooting thread for that one and get it running. It doesn’t have jfets to bias, or ICs, or germanium transistors. I’ve only built 20 pedals, so I’m still fairly new. When my...

Benny beat me by 2 minutes, and I like his idea better!

I had a similar question. I plan to breadboard a few before committing to a pcb and enclosure. Starting with the magnetron. Do you have a PT2399 on hand, that you could mess around with?

I installed D100 normally, bump C102 up to 100uF, and jumper across D101 and D102. You can see the jumper on the top pads in my picture. Original discussion here: Thread 'Am I correct on: How to remove a charge pump?'...

I just double checked the drawings, both are 20 mm shaft length. The tayda picture must be skewed. I think they cloned the adafruit part.

I had not seen these before, has anyone used them on a Pedalpcb board? The data sheet looks close if not identical to the adafruit 2925. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-rotary-switch-1-pole-8-position-alpha-rs16211-20mm.html I’ll grab a few in my next order to check out. So far, I’ve...

I thought I was done (yeah, right) but now I’m obsessed with wahs and filters.

“It’s been a while since I’ve done a muff. . . . . . . . . style pedal” :LOL: The puns just keep rolling.

I know this post was a week ago, but I can’t stop mumble singing “potato waaaave”. Will it ever stop?

Exactly! As I haphazardly add a circuit block to my already disorganized breadboard, I yell “wrong section!”

My last failure was a stray single strand of wire connecting the + directly to the -. Made me consider using solid wire for hookup from now on. But more depressing for me is when I finally fix it, it starts working, and I think, “this pedal sucks. I think I hate this pedal.”

I can’t stop looking at the gear surrounding the LED meshing with the big gear in the middle. I’m relatively new here, but this is the craziest ppcb build that I have seen.

Wouldn’t top or bottom be the same node?

I’m no expert, but here’s what I would try: Looking at the picture of the board on the Pedalpcb store, it looks like the inboard pads for the diodes go to the volume pot and the outboard pads go to ground. Double check your board to make sure the outboard pads are ground. Then wire the +/-...