Search results

Nope, you can wire it like the non buffered bypass on page 5. You can see it’s a little different.

I solder tranny to the socket, but only one leg and I do it quick.

Your solder could make do with a reflow. Some of the pads look like they have no solder at all. I’m sure they do, though. The solder should flow through the hole. Also, check all the values to insure nothing is off there.

I got some of them along with Bezels. 1/2” drill bit for the bezel.

Mouser?

If it’s in the power section, chances are good it’s a 47r.

Oh man, that’s awesome! I just started binging South Park. Started at season1.

Yessir

I have something similar. I concur, an audio probe is a must have.

Bad solder joint, wrong value component, reversed polarity component, solder bridge…..

Sounds like a faulty dc jack.

@Robert

I’m going to echo that and say that the fet is out of spec. You can increase your resistance if you can’t get it down any lower.

Sounds like an Ion board.

And all the other solder joints that’s look like that. Go ahead and reflow them all. It will only help.

@Robert what say you?

There’s a great app called ee tooolkit that’s really handy for things like this. I use it a fair amount.

The schematic says 2M also. It’s just a buffer though. Use what you have. It looks like they’re being used as a voltage divider, so you should be fine. The output, according to my calculations, should be the same.

That was my understanding as well.