Search results

So I'll start by saying that Robert (PedalPCB) does not control the postal service, and once it's dropped off he has no way of affecting the speed of delivery. I will also say that USPS first class international is always slow, but it is also cheap, so comparing it to DHL shipping is not a fair...

I have a mostly functional build doc for Solaris, just missing drill template (I think it's the same as Lab Rat without the toggle switch) and the detailed build instructions (same build process as Lab Rat, nothing weird). I'll get that one out soon.

Tassie is correct (which is to be expected, I think he's built everything I make at this point).

And it can do that pretty well, but ask it to draw you a schematic and it will give you garbage.

Based on my experience, that's par for the course for AI tools. I've seen some AI tools give accurate technical explanations of circuits, but I've never seen an AI-generated schematic that is anywhere near coherent.

If your goal is to find out what a circuit sounds like, especially probing multiple places, AI is going to be zero help. This really is the sort of thing where breadboards are the best tool for the job.

That's what I assumed you meant, and my answer still stands. The input voltage is fed directly to the tube heater only, the plate voltage generated by the SMPS doesn't change, and that has much more impact on the tone than the heater voltage does.

The jury is out on that one. Some people swear they hear a difference, others swear they don't.

Hi/Lo is for overall output level, kind if like an output attenuator for if it's too hot. As for current I'll have to go back and measure it, I haven't plugged mine in recently, but I would recommend at least 600mA on a 9V supply. The more the better though.

This isn't specific to the gloss printing, but Tayda's UV prints don't go all the way to the edge. Their printable size is smaller than the actual enclosure face size.

Huh, I'll have to take a look at the link, sorry about that.

That is not normal, there is something wrong with your SMPS. Make sure your NE555 is installed and double check the orientation, also check the orientation of your IRF470 and 2N3904. You should still be getting high voltage even with no load on this.

Your SMD footprint doesn't have to 100% line up with the one on EasyEDA, the part just has to fit, oversizing so you have a hand-soldering option isn't a problem. I usually make my own footprints for things, but Mouser and DigiKey have an ever-growing number of footprints for every software out...

Have you looked at the build instructions? The names and colors of the boards have changed, but the process is the same.

What do you need help with exactly? The orientation?

Does it have to be SMD? JLC also does through-hole assembly, they have plenty of options for through-hole 1uF film caps. That's what I do for caps in the signal path.

That one wasn't made by me, don't know whose it was. At this point I think there are more Nobelium out in the wild that weren't made by me than that were, but all of mine are pretty easy to spot. If there's any doubt, I probably didn't build it.

Have you tried getting them direct from Daier? I used to make direct orders from them for enclosures and footswitches, you can save some money when buying in bulk. My sales rep "Sandy" still emails me every now and then to check in.

Hey look, a pedal I made. Yeah I was introduced to him at NAMM, super nice dude. And not to pat myself on the back, but I think it's a pretty cool pedal.

https://stompboxparts.com/pots/9mm-snap-in-potentiometer-long-knurled-shaft/ That's the part, but you would need my XLR daughter board to mount it. The prefabbed units use a completely different PCB.