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Glad you got it work! Where you bought e-caps and what brand they were? If you have component tester, you can measure how leaky caps are.

@Feral Feline hard one, but comparing your suspected brown band to other bands I’d say it’s most likely more red than brown. Impossible to say for sure!

You changed R14 instead R15, but that’s not the culprit here. I’m wondering why some of the e-caps are subbed with other types? C5 and C8 are there to block DC so maybe replace those with e-caps? If you don’t have 47nF ones, use two 100nF parallel to get close or use what ever you have -/+20%...

https://www.electrosmash.com/images/tech/bmp/big-muff-pi-v3-bias.png Edit. Have you tried circuit without footswitch (board) connecting muffin pcb output straight to jack? Not so sure it could also explain transistor misbias, but low output for sure. Also if I remember correctly on one...

Are the transistors oriented correct way? Markings on pcb may not match what’s in transistor; EBC vs CBE. If thats OK, move to check values of resistors connected to Q3/4.

That’s crazy low temp. No doubt you get solder blobs. I run my station @ 300-350C (570-660F). Lower for components and pcb contacts, higher for wiring.

Apart from vast amount of possible cold solder joints first thing to check is GND problem with bad contact on red circles marked. Also there’s a good change for a bridge with wiring exposed and between solder blobs. Use less flux and check your soldering station heat setting to the point where...

It’s afraid. 🙄

Most of ’em can be modified to what you want by changing master bypass wiring to buffer on/off. Buffer on/off wiring to switch is done as normal 3PDT bypass wiring scheme and switch output goes to A/B-switch input. Pick your poison from http://www.muzique.com/lab/buffers.htm and we’re able to...

In stereo mode A/B channel outputs are not parallel, but RobotZombie stated using only A channel. A has two parallel mono outputs.

Amp outputs are most likely parallel so two 4ohm cabs are 2ohms combined with what you suggest. It could be manageable, but could cause excessive heat and output power.

One 4ohm system could be 2x8ohm parallel speakers or cabinets connected to ONE output jack and two 8ohm systems connected to TWO output jacks makes ’em parallel too and gives same 4ohm. System is speaker or speaker system with multiple speakers.

Rated speaker impedance is nominal value as impedance varies greatly with frequency. Usually it’s fine to mismatch amp output and speaker impedance double over suggested value in amp, but you have to remember it can change load on output transformer/circuit and cause less or more heat stress. If...

I’m derailing topic here, but when I first read topic title I thought @BorisOldesloe wants to start a thread quiz about ”What Rat variant YOU are?”

I just had show of my life.

Red = COLD JOINT/partial contact, reflow at higher temp and get yourself more familiar how your soldering tip behaves with your solder Yellow = possible cold joint hiding, reflowing probably necessary Green = excellent joint, congratulations Pre-tin your wires before soldering! From my...

I’d remove all outboard connections. Then look build doc wiring guide, follow it precisely and trim wire lengths short as possible. Now you have extra connections between grounds and wires are so long they could act as hum picking antennas. After that lets dive into component values?

Any dirty IC boost works, flavor is you to choose. I also heard if your extreme enough you could put muff before rat.

That crotch toggle is misaligned just few millimeters! ;)

I need to build octave fuzz too! Is there updated build doc or schematic with tweaks available? Or should I just bump @Robert . :)