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FYI I'm sure you figured it out by now, but for anyone else who might wander here (like me) the schematic says the serial/parallel only works in neck position due to how it's wired. Pickup switching in series mode doesn't make much sense because I don't think it matters which is first. Or maybe...

Don't do anything drastic! All of that pent up gonk energy releasing at once could have catastrophic consequences!

Is that where you start thinking differently once you join a protestant church? Sorry, sorry, I'll walk myself out.

What 386 are you using? I would first attribute the weird compression sound to those. LM386N-4 seems to work well. Edit: The JRC386D would probably be the best if you can get those.

Nice build, I'm a fan of those aluminum knnobs and would use some if I wasn't so cheap! I would also be interested in the gerbers.

Hey, I buy from PPCB directly! I haven't done the exact math, but I'm pretty sure it still comes out a little cheaper to use PPCB + Tayda than Musikding. ...I should probably do the math though.

I think flat out making up some bullshit would be worse, there could in theory be some point to it for someone who has gotten so deep into the miniscule details of electronics that they've lost sight of what actually matters or not. But I would probably rather have a pedal designed by someone...

What are the chances that they actually did consider what kind of brass knobs would in theory be minimally better, or alternatively did they just make some shit up to sell pedals?

Jesus fucking christ. Don't get me wrong, my pedals are barely better, but then I only build them for my own use and know I can get very impatient. I don't charge $300 for them. Then again, maybe the enclosure cost $150 to make and drove the price up, that might explain it.

I don't think I've actually owned any stock RAT's, but I do have a Life Pedal clone (built by someone on Etsy) and a 1981 DRV that I built myself. Not a fan of either one. My favourite is definitely the Rat Salad, but I'm not sure if there are any boards available, I don't know if @steviejr92...

I've read a sentiment along the lines of "you could probably fix the pedal if you wanted, but at that point why not just design a better pedal instead?" about this schematic. I definitely agree that the dry path being so dark sucks, and the distortion being very ugly (and loud). But the build...

Note, it's called the Fuzz Driver and it's different from the Hybrid Fuzz Driver. Anyone know what this is? Is it some ancient Skreddy pedal, or just something else that was mislabeled? http://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2019/09/skreddy-fuzz-driver.html...

Just to verify for anyone who might run into this issue in the future, after changing the diode I get a steady 9.43 volts or so from all of the outputs (same as the ones that already worked before). Like I said, I don't think I have any way to test for ripple or anything like that, but I'll try...

Hmm, so it means it might be available during this sale? I don't want to pressure you, it takes what it takes (especially since I know there's holiday celebrations in the US for a lot of people), just curious.

Ok, I suspect there's something on my end then - it has been going on for a couple of weeks now, and right now as I'm trying to reply to you, the first time I clicked reply I just got the spinning bar up top, and after a while it disappeared and nothing happened. Now I can reply just fine and it...

Just checking in, is this issue still on, or am I having a personal issue? Both the store and the forums sometimes fail to load for me, I get endless spinners (or whatever the top bar that moves is called) or I get a error. If I wait a few seconds it works and feels very snappy, so it's very...

I like a more subtle chorus, so my favourite is probably ITB versions of Dimension D, presumably the closest pedal one would be the DC-2W?

The simplest way is probably to just move the hole there yourself (you can just figure out some numbers where it looks nice, maybe make the vertical position same as the footswitch so it looks neat) and run wires from the LED hole. The other option is to jumper the LED holes and run a wire from...

FWIW I've built a couple of those boards with 1/4 watt resistors, they're pretty easy to get there using the lean-to method.

A few disclaimers though - the 150€ thing was only once mentioned to me by phone by a person on the customs help line, I didn't bother looking it up myself, and the customs site sucks for looking up the actual items - I always just use the "resistor, metal, less than 20W" or whatever it was...