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Yeah, I wasn't trying to say that was causing your problem, I just have a fingernails-on-chalkboard reaction whenever I see bent pots :ROFLMAO:

Those joint all look at least partially broken. You can see a gap between the solder and the pot legs. I also wouldn't trust those pot legs not to break when you bend them back. If I need to get to the PCB under a pot, I would personally desolder the pot before I would bend it like that.

That definitely sounds familiar. I eventually gave up and read the manual - not something I expect to have to do with a fuzz pedal, but it helped to understand the controls a little better. I also watched a bunch of demos and got some good non-intuitive suggestions for knob settings. There...

Hmmm. Never tried it, but I think I remember reading that filing was a no-no. Stupid AI results agree for whatever that’s worth.

Nice looking set! I didn’t even know they were slinging PCBs over there! I’ll have to check those out.

The best way to get more height clearance would be not to use those super long-leg pots. ;)

I've had that experience with paint pens on some enclosures (I get mine mostly from Tayda). I've always assumed it was some slight oil contamination from handling. I give everything some kind of solvent wipe down, then I make sure to only handle them with gloves on through the paint pen and...

Damn Jimi! You’re on a roll lately. Old school home brew etched PCBs and fancy graphics! Love it.

No idea what the mod is, but I did catch this video recently where they talk about one a bit.

Those knobs are awesome! I’m looking forward to building one of these.

12.7 is half of 25.4, so 1/2 inch seems right per the specs. I measured one at 12.2, so I was hoping you might get away with one of those 12mm nuts. The thread is the weird part to me. 26 isn’t a common imperial thread, but 1mm is a common metric one… so 1/2 inch with a 1mm thread? 1/2-26? 13...

Thanks for that tip! I had a feeling I was missing something simple. I have a few alphabet templates, but the fonts are pretty much identical. I can adjust the size and the slant, and once in a while I’ll throw in some lowercase, but I usually stick with the same small uppercase for everything.

Don’t pretend to be interested! 🤣 It’s based on an EAE dagger, and I like it a lot. Bright-ish overdrive, lots of gain, tone controls are shelf eqs which is interesting. My taste in drive pedals is pretty irrational and inconsistent, but this one grabbed me right away. Probably some...

I grabbed this one out of the pile just because I liked the sparkly green enclosure, but it also sounds great! I upgraded to a slightly less ancient iphone recently and it sure doesn't like taking pictures up close. I tried shooting from further away and cropping, but these pics still don't...

Do you have voltage on the rails on the right side of the board? I see them connected on the left, but I think you also need jumpers to get across the center gaps.

1mm thread on the metric gauge, or 26 on the imperial set. Have you tried these? https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware-tools/nuts-washers-screws-spacers-and-more/nuts/nut-12mm.html

See if you can bend your LDR away from the LED a little.

Wouldn’t the 1.0 on that data sheet be the thread pitch? I can pull out some thread gauges tomorrow and check some.

Sounds like you’re trying to measure your resistors while they’re soldered to the pcb. That doesn’t work. Like Jwin615 explained above, you want to verify the color codes.

Looks like your FV1 is upside down. 🙃