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Top - Sziklai RM-thing. Bottom - CMOS Muff. Built, zero sound from the top side and super quiet, very trebly output from the bottom side. Only have done a quick poke at voltages and everything looks fine - I've got supply, vref and about 7v going to the 4007. Thanks!

Isopropyl and an ultrasonic cleaner

Working on rejigging my tube workshops, and decided to do a pretty basic triode project - Merlins LV triode clean boost. Before I got PCB's made, I cut a stripped down version on the CNC only to forget about vertical height requirements - it was a bit of a shitshow to get it into the enclosure...

I couldn't find it originally on their website, but was originally told that as long as the sections aren't electrically connected they're a separate design. Spent a little time back and forth on whether this was right or not after I found their own guidelines, and they eventually just said that...

I've had one PedalPCB board with a trace fault - from memory it was a Parentheses board, and I'm fairly sure it was something like the buffer not being connected to the octave input (which was VERY obvious once I got it built). I could physically see the trace between the two components but...

Post a schematic. You may just be able to use one of the hybrid tubes with dissimilar triodes to get the benefits you want without changing things massively

EEV blog post mirroring my experiences Their customer support has now been saying for 6 weeks that PayPal is "temporarily down" while they've deleted all mention of it from their website. Payoneer isn't available in Australia, and even then there are some real concerns using it ($20USD minimum...

I always just keep things simple - schottky for reverse polarity protection, then ferrite bead + caps for filtering. Most power supply noise these days is from switching instead of mains, so stacks of resistance isn't necessary for a HPF. Ferrite bead works to suppress switching noise without...

So there you go. Not a massive difference, and using much less board space. The lower bandwidth of the PP stages is actually advantageous - the rolloff is similar to where the original design has a couple of staggered LPF's before the tone stack, so response is almost identical if I use...

Just tried both in the sim to see which got closer

Pretty much any are going to work in that build - the cheap Tayda ones will be fine (it's just to reduce HF noise into the regulator - it's already got a lot of noise rejection so values aren't critical).

Howdy, I've been on that FET binge while looking at amp/preamp emulation, and came across the original Foolin' With FETS article which includes a push-pull stage. With that in the back of my mind while I was looking through other schematics, I noticed pretty much just everything uses a SRPP (or...

Lawdy that is some hot trash build quality. Cap is to prevent oscillation/take some treble out

Q1 typically - original FF has like +18dB of gain for Q1 (once you take into account the negative feedback), and around +1dB on Q2. You can limit treble if you go too big. Just look at any of the OKF variants - most will have somewhere between 47 and 470pf across Q1, and from 0 to 47pf across...

FWIW, just slap a small NP0 cap from the base to emitter - 22-100pf is typically enough. In the majority of situations it will remove the squeal at max gain.

Would making 3D printable jigs to hold various size enclosures so their top surface is perpendicular to the spindle be of use? I've made one myself but could probably whip up some files if others would like them.

I mean, the whole thread is about Plexi-sounding pedals lol

The patent is for thermal stability - nothing to do with the rest of the circuit. (It's also just using a thermocouple/heater to keep the temperature stable, which anybody can figure out themselves very easily). Iirc the GE version is just the normal preamp with a temperature stabilised GE BJT...

If the originals were just bypass switching, you just need 3PDTs if you want an indicator