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it's because of the way the feedback loop is set up. A fundamental function of an op amp is that it wants its pos and neg inputs to be equal. In the feedback loop are LEDs and resistors consume voltage, which means that the voltage going back into the neg input becomes less than the pos, so the...

The LFO on these by design will stall at either end of the rotation of the rate knob. I put a 2.7k ohm resistor on either end of the rate knob to establish a hard limit on its range. This solved the LFO issue. I did a bunch of research and found that EQD themselves acknowledge this is a design...

I just bought a pickguard from Greasy Groove in Canada and it totaled to $52 so I'll see if I get slapped with anything when it shows up

That's cool! I did the same thing with mine, making it horizontal. You can make the Je Taime into a tchula if you want to fit it into a smaller enclosure. Also, there is the Twill Deluxe, which is a Les Lius. It has 3 modes, one of which says is a tchula but it's a bit different. The Thchula is...

I use iso and q tips. If you spend extra time you can get the sticky residue off completely by using more Q tips. When you apply the iso to the board is loosens the flux, and some soaks into the Q tip while some stays on the board because the Q tip is so small there is a limit to how much liquid...

You can use film but being that it's not in the audio path a ceramic (or more specifically MLCC) is fine to use. Film are bigger and more expensive so they are typically reserved for the audio path, but here there's no need for them.

Solder flow issues are almost always due to a lack of heat. If you're using lead free solder start with your iron at around 350C and go up from there maybe to around 450 if the solder doesn't melt within one second of touching to the iron and components. Also a thicker tip transfers heat...

This didn't start off as a spite build - it became one. I've been working thru the backlog of older boards. This was my first attempt at SMD soldering. It was a little scary at first but I watched a couple vids and it wasn't that hard to pick up. I built this before the weird voltage chip...

I wanted to try out this original circuit. When I was brainstorming design aesthetics for the enclosure what came to mind was a storybook yellow rain coat, and the knobs are blue rain drops. And the gut shot It's a big muff circuit without the clipping diodes. I read up on it and people...

I don't normally name my pedals but this one was christened NSFW because it's the BBC-1 I tried out some metallic paints on these. I'm not a fan of the consistency of the metallic as they need at least two coats for good coverage, but it came out pretty decent. I off boarded one of the pots so...

Mine is our fourth dining table chair since we have the table against a wall instead of the middle of the room (don't get me started)

It's not over yet. There's always going to be a reason it's not working - we just need to find out what that reason is. We will find it, it's just a matter of time. The popping noise means DC is in the signal path somewhere. We just have to find out why. A common place for this to happen is at...

Check your traces at each of the ICs' pins. Those kind of sockets aren't the best

I have an older version of this one. It works good. Try to buy it with a coupon

Many designs I've seen have a 100uf electrolytic cap placed from the pos rail to ground. Is this called a filter cap or a bypass cap? (Trying to clarify terminology) Sometimes there is also a 100nf film or MLCC in parallel with the 100uf, and sometimes the electrolytic value is smaller, like...

The popping when you turn it on or off means DC is making its way into the audio path somewhere. Try touching the wires going to the switch daughterboard and see if you can get any of them to make noise. Try turning the pedal on and off while putting pressure on them in different ways to see if...

That's a nice consideration. I built two Paupers over the summer, the first of which I drilled to line up with the board allocations for pots/switch. Then I realized I couldn't fit three big MXR knobs so I had to use a small one for the tone control (pour one out). On the second build I bent the...

Here we go, another MLCC vs electrolytic thread it doesn't really matter. Use a film if you have it

It's never really an issue. Just make sure you're using a step bit with small increments for small holes, and one with larger increments for larger holes. You can also make sure the hole in the center of the table is in line with the drill bit

You want to use 33nF, not uF, and it doesn't really make a big difference. There might be a slight change in bass response, but nothing that would alter the character of the pedal