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And please report back your findings!

You could've breadboarded the circuit and tried the mod yourself instead of burning a ton of resources with an ai query, which wasn't that helpful. Anyway what I told you is true, I've done it several times but only you can know what sounds good to you.

C4. A cap from input to ground will drain some treble to ground and get rid of radio stations and hiss but it has to be at least a few nF for it to be effective. No idea what 100pF even does other than shave off some imperceptible high frequencies but I'm sure someone will chime in and school...

IIRC this circuit makes noise whe youn turn the knob, and there's hiss that can be tamed by increasing the cap to ground at the input. 10n shoudl do it. Mine is not noisy but it's basically a worse Fuzz Face.

Yes. Also a lint free sheet to soak up the IPA. Use the toothbrush your ex left behind.

Italy. I thought your username was a reference to a word heard on a record by a famous Italian band

I have never used a flux pen. A good iron with a freshly tinned tip works every time for me. I started out with a crappy iron that would take 5 minutes to get to temp and would cool down after every joint and I botched a lot of joints. Getting a better iron has been a game changer

BTW it's a good idea to populate the board by component height. I would solder the IC sockets before the caps. I usually go diodes, resistors, trimpots, sockets, ceramic caps, transistors, film caps, electrolytic caps. Also, not to pry but your username makes me think we come from the same...

Iron at max heat is not a good idea IMO. Too easy to burn pads and wear out tips too fast. An iron that has good recovery and holds temperature, however, like a T12 or 245, is a very good idea. You can always crank the temperature for large components and turrets but for pedal PCBs I like 350...

Can't read the whole thread now so I'm gonna ask: do you just use any JFETs in the Nein and they all work?

This is one of the most extreme fuzzes. If you play a Fuzz Face, it has beautiful cleans and OD tones in it, all accessible with the volume knob on the guitar. But I agree that true tube overdrive is something else. I have a 30w Princeton-like amp with master volume so I can enjoy preamp tube OD...

Yes what is that singing?!

The white washer is essential for preparing and conditioning your tone to run 29 pedals in a row. What a magical circuit!

I didn't need to know the concept of navel stench and now I do. Enough internet for today and it's only 8:22... But great build!

I miss that but didn't he come back on a similar thread? What happened?

Love the narration!

Great work! I populated my board years ago. I think it's time to order an enclosure for it. Should I use shielded wire for input and output to avoid ticking?

Mine was doing the same and I also ended up burning a pad while trying to solve that issue and I also has to run the cathode to ground somewhere else. Since my pedal didn't really work I figured I'd chuck it and ordered another board to work on in the future. I don't understand why the LED...

My TC-1 showed a ton of transistors as diodes or resistors or weirdness. And they all sounded bad. So I trust it for most components but if I was serious about building I'd get a Peak.

That sounds amazing and also something I will 100% screw up. Assuming I manage to measure correctly, do I solder the pins to the PCB and then to the daughterboard after bending them?