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Are the drain voltages really that high? When I max out the trimmers I can only get around 13v. For now I adjusted each one to around 7.5v and it sounds pretty good. Just having a hard time doubting anything you post so figured I should just ask. lol. Thanks.

Amazing work. Paint makers or brushed model paint? Guessing oil based will work better than anything water based for this stuff? Any brands or paint types you recommend? Thanks!

Do it!! I can’t wait to finish mine. I like how you rigged the LED up to float like that. I gotta remember that. Next time if you don’t wanna bolt it on try this epoxy. It works wonders.

Thanks for the info!

Just wondering. What is the benefit of doing this over the stock setup? I understand it’ll have a better sweep overall so mostly wondering about the adding of the resistor.

Finally finished it. Sounds sooo good. Also got some more info about grounding pin 6 of the TAPLFO directly from Tom at Electric Druid. Essentially the Cherry Pie pcb was designed to be used with the TAPLFO 2C which didn’t have a smoothing filter so pin 6 was left unconnected. The TAPLFO 3C and...

I think what he's saying is that the middle position on head 4 is the "bonus". "ON 1" - regular mode (stock functioning, head 4 switch up, normal loudness) "ON 2" - bonus mode (head 4 switch in middle position, which would be quieter)

I built one of these last week and it sounds great. This is what I used: - 5mm yellow diffused LED from Tayda. This particular LED disperses the light really well from the top and all sides - better than others I’ve tried. Just a nicer full glow. They’re great for these kind of effects. -...

Those are definitely both type 2. I think Tayda only has one Type 1 available right now. It shows blue in the picture but they’re a maroon color and they’re not as good quality as the Dailywell. Had to use two for my PcbMania “Shoeman” PLL clone. Type 1...

Yeah this is just how the pedal sounds. That clip sounds good.

Just wanted to add a bit to this thread. Anyone building this using TAPLFO-3C or TAPLFO-3D can access an extra 8 waveforms by putting a SPST switch between the two empty lugs for C7. Or just use two lugs of a SPDT. It switches between grounding pin 3 and leaving it unconnected. On the...

Just wanted to add this picture to the thread as it may be helpful to someone in the future. Found this good shot on instagram of how the caps are wired. Built by N.O.C. pedals

Thanks for the help as always 😁 good info here. I usually never use below 1k for any LED and everything looks good but may try lower with the green LEDs.

Would lowering the value of R14 to around 1k-3k have any negative impact on the LED/LDR? Or do they not have any effect on each other since they’re in parallel? The 10k is too much for the green bypass indicator LED I want to use. I have a Yellow 5mm from Tayda connected to R15 and the 10k...

They call it a “cover” but it’s just a gigantic pcb.

I checked all your resistors and they look correct. I’d try the audio probe or a multi meter that has a continuity setting next. Where did you get the 3207? It’s hard to see the writing on top in the picture so I can’t tell if it’s a Coolaudio brand. Just a few suggestions for your next build...

That’s cool! Nice job

It’s interesting how he got this interview after posting a video where he seemed genuinely sad about how some guys just can’t be reached lol. Gotta love Beato. 😂

There needs to be something separating the dual gang pot from the pcb. Like a small slip of cardboard taped into place so the pot doesn’t touch the back of the pcb. The two threads below should help. If neither of these procedures work then it’s probably a component issue like a wrong resistor...

The price seems to have gone up a bit from the $35 pre order but it’s still available at Ameoba with free shipping. Seems like a bunch of online record shops have it available too but will most likely charge shipping...