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Depends on the circuit. A lot of things you can just pick n plop, but there are some circuits where you need to be a little pickier. Phasers will need matched JFETs. Lots of lower gain fuzz pedals require each transistors to be in certain gain ranges to sound "best". In a Ross compressor, you...

Flipped enclosure looks really cool! Nice work on the guts, looks sharp.

yes yes yes YES

Very sneaky with the I/O wires. Scratching my head for a second thinking something was missing. Alas! Looks awesome! Where's the trapezoid box from?

Thanks! Spray cans. Grey primer, light blue, black. Sanded until I saw the aluminum in a few spots. Then white spray with a light touch from ~2 feet away. Decal, clear coat.

Wanted a new booster on my board. This does the job splendid, a good healthy mid boost to cut through! Happy with how it sounds and looks! This pedal was a pain in my ass! Not the project in particular, or getting it into the 1590B. Tested out of the box, worked great. Put it in the box, very...

Yup, that's what I did for awhile. When I couldn't grip wire cutters I bought them pre-made. But yeah, nice easy task to do yourself between coats of paint or waiting for parts to show up.

I own an OG Timmy and the Timmy v3, probably my favorite OD pedal. They can be dialed in to sound pretty much exactly the same. Timmy v3 has more gain on tap via the switch, Paul Cochrane said it's supposed to bring the Timmy into the gain range of the Tim. Biggest difference to me is the taper...

I usually use precut prestripped wire. Started using it after I lacerated the tendon in my right thumb. Soldering was tough but stripping wire was impossible, I had no leverage or strength whatsoever in my right hand. Thumb is healed but haven't turned back from prepped wire, it's really...

The FZ-2 is rad. Sort of muffy but cooler, nice to be able to gets some mids with the toggle and having hi/lo control. Stock build except transistors were subbed with BC546C.

It sounds like the SW pad/wire is shorting to ground somewhere. If the LED cathode is always connected to ground it will always stay lit, no matter if the pedal is on or bypassed. Can't see for sure, but check if the GND and SW pads/wires are shorting together. Check for frayed wires, solder...

Common, tinning on cheaper lugs isn't very good. Some cleaning with isopropyl alcohol -might- help. You could also take some fine grit sandpaper and scuff the solder points a bit, and then also clean with isopropyl, that's helped me in a few scenarios in the past.

Looks like it's just the board.

Thanks! Really want to try an Informant. I have a Muroidea PCB poking around that I almost threw in the box instead. Looks like I have an excuse to make another RAT :)

It's strip board (with holes plated on both sides). I think that's "vero"? Was thinking the same but had none on hand. The whole interior of enclosure is plastic and the RAT sticker over the LED hole holds it in place nicely :)

Thanks! Work provided gear. Canon T3i and Havox photo box.

Vero and proto are fun. I like taking misdrilled boxes or parts sitting around too long to make something. As said prior, it feels like a free pedal if you have a standard assortment of parts already sitting around. If the appearance of the wiring matters, all the extra wires make that a fun...

Pots on my Rat were super scratchy and/or broke. Instead of having to source those thru PCB pots with the long shaft and new knobs, I decided to rebuild the whole circuit on stripboard and put it back in the enclosure. NOS Motorola LM308AH and NOS Fairchild 2n5458 JFET. Also put a regular DC...

Is this what you're looking for? https://stompboxparts.com/semiconductors/pt2399s-digital-delay-ic/

Truetone CS7 user at the moment. My experience is that any of the popular iso bricks (voodoo labs, truetone, etc) are all going to get the job done the best, get the one that meets your power and outlet needs. Many smaller boards can typically run off a daisy chain 1spot with no problems.