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What do you measure for voltages on the 556 when it's plugged in? Looks like pin 14 (top right) should measure 9V and pin 7 (bottom left) is ground. Also it looks like the reverse polarity protection in this circuit just creates a short circuit between +9/GND if it's reversed, so I imagine that...

hah, thanks for reminding me why I switched to using PCB mounted jacks in the first place. I'm like 90% sure that you've reversed the polarity. Every damn time I try to solder one of these I have to look up the pinout and I still get it wrong. Not sure which jack is supposed to go in there...

One thing I've done on builds (where I'm designing a new PCB) that have a tiny sweet spot is to use a multi-turn trimpot like the 3296W instead of the 3362P-style. Maybe it'd be neat to design a little breakout board that could go in the footprint of the 3362P to replace it with a multi-turn...

I did run into this today - the UI is confusing, though, and I've probably even used Extended Preferred parts unintentionally in the past without realizing it. I used some 330K resistors that were 'Extended Preferred' and not basic. In the BOM UI, they show up as 'Extended' with no mention of...

BTW are you using extra flux? Especially with lead-free/high-temp solder, the only correct amount of flux is "more". Some extra flux helps solder wick take up the solder much easier. For flux, I really like the Stirri stuff. I don't like the V2/V3, it is stinky, but the ASM stuff doesn't...

truth! Other stuff to stock up on that you'll probably always need (and are cheap in quantity): ICs: I got a big package of these IC sockets, much better quality than the ones I got from Tayda. Diodes - 1N4148 aka 1N914, 1N5817 (in many builds as a reverse polarity protection diode)...

BTW when you say you have continuity, does that mean you're using the continuity tester on your meter (BEEEEEP) or just looking for non-open circuits maybe w/ resistance? I'm still thrown by the continuity between pins 1 and 8 (direct to +9v and GND via C17), 3 (direct to GND), 5 (direct to -9V...

Yikes, pin1 is +9v and pin3 is GND, so you have a short between 9V and ground here. Especially with pin5 also showing continuity, I'd try replacing C18, since C18 connects between pin5 and ground. (Though I'm not 100% sure here since if it really is shorted like that I don't know how anything...

I actually haven't run into anything in that category (yet). It sounds like it's "Extended" parts at "Basic" setup prices based on the FAQ. The tool I was using (Bouni KiCad tools) didn't have a filter for it (that I remember seeing, anyway) so I hadn't really looked at them before. This is...

I think the IC values in this post(linked) are close to where they should be. You should be getting ~17V on pin 8 of IC2 and ~-9V on pin 4. If you check out the schematic you can see that they're connected right to the +18 and -9V from the charge pump and there's not much more that connects...

I think something's gone quite wrong in your power section, but it can be hard to tell for sure with the op-amps in there. What do the voltages measure at the pins with IC1 and IC2 removed? It's not clear when you list your voltages since you're using a dash to separate the pin number from the...

I have some footswitch daughterboards that do Various Things. At the simplest they're just for putting the status LED somewhere near the footswitch, but I've recently created some that are more Fancy.

I got the boards back from JLC today! Hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll have some time to build and test them. I'll let y'all know whether or not they work out. I do see at least one thing that needs fixin' but probably isn't a dealbreaker. The Ge diode footprints are too small for most...

I forgot to mention another trick I've started using to lower my price per unit: More Price Hacking: JLC Parts Library Another trick I've recently started using to keep prices down is to use the JLC 'My Parts' library. How much this helps depends on how many boards you buy and what kind of...

Yeah I think this has to do with turnaround times - the Economic assembly is available on the color/finish/thickness combos where they're pushing a ton of boards through and can get them produced fast. I forgot to mention it, but choosing PCBA effectively moves your boards to the front of the...

Glad it was useful! I cleaned it up a bit and added a little more stuff and posted it here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/getting-started-with-pcba-at-jlcpcb.26836/ Maybe it's worth sticky-ing (high hopes) Also here: https://github.com/z2amiller/pedalfx/blob/main/JLCPCBA.md

Getting started with SMD PCBA(ssembly) at JLCPCB Also available as https://github.com/z2amiller/pedalfx/blob/main/JLCPCBA.md Disclaimer I'm just some guy who reads/researches stuff to a possibly-unhealthy degree. I don't even play guitar any more and never really did - I make effects for...

This has been my general approach but #IHaveNoIdeaWhatI'mDoingDog. C0G/NP0 caps for anything in the audio path, X7R/X5R for IC decoupling/power filtering caps. Mostly muRata which is generally available on LCSC/JLC for the C0G caps. In terms of physical size, you're limited by what's offered...

I have the PCBA ordered! (Well, 5 of them) Within a week or so I'll be able to figure out if it actually works. :-) I'll keep you posted. If things look good I'll post the gerbers/BOMs.

I did build some IO boards like that that can use only round holes (so you can do it at home with a drill (press)). Instead of the jack for the power, it has a spot for a 2-pin JST connector, then you can solder the JST header to one of these types of DC jacks. This way you can at least...