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I put colored heat shrink bands on cables for everything that’s not 9 volt. Reverse polarity gets yellow, 12 v blue, 15 green, and 18 red. But I love this idea!

A step that I take when populating boards is to pull the leads taut (at an angle) and then trim them to about 1/4 inch long. This serves mainly to reduce the extra wire, which is just a heat sink, and also makes it easier to get the iron tip at the attitude I want it at with less forest in the...

That’s what I was going to post. I almost go out of my way not to use it, but when I finally concede, it makes it easy. I ended up getting several of the different sized tips for it; the longer ones are a little less effective, but on a tighter board are a good bit easier to get in place...

Since you want to keep this as simple as possible (in terms of controls), I think the first decision is which comes first—boost or chorus? I’d experiment with two pedals, and decide that. Potentially, assuming you’re not planning on original circuits, you could also use these, via where you’ve...

I like to use the multi turn type for transistor biasing, somehow it seems easier to nail it. For tuning LFOs it doesn’t seem to make as much difference. Can’t comment on comparing their drift. But I don’t think the drift would come from the screw slightly turning, so can’t see glue as a viable...

Another solid core Teflon user here. I bought big spools of navy surplus in 18, 20, 22, and 24 gauge sometimes in the 80s, and just have small amounts left—a lot of it went into braiding interconnects for stereo and studio stuff. I have a bunch of different cutters for it, but my most used is to...

My first thought was a tip that’s not mirror shiny. But a bad thermostat could also be the culprit. I don’t use lead free, basically I wash my hands when I’m done. I also use an exhaust fan for the rosin fumes—lead doesn’t vaporize until well beyond what your soldering iron can heat it to, so...

yes, it should be. that P is the important signifier; I think it originally meant that it was in a plastic, as opposed too metal, housing, but that's by memory, which I truly don't trust... There must be a rational reason why the pinout was reversed.

This has gotten me several times!

Great work, and I’ll be interested in a board also! Curious as to why you went 15 rather than 18 volt.

Wolf notes. Heck, everything I play is a “wolf” note. (That’s what the W stands for) But, you’re right, I do plan on sanding the nut down a good bit. But am waiting until I do the first string change since it would be much harder to do with the strings there. I do have the slots refined enough...

I've refined nuts on guitars for years, finally breaking down and buying some of the Japanese nut files. But this ended up being harder than I expected—both because I'm used to much thicker strings (I generally play 11s or 12s, depending on the guitar) and the .010 file I needed to use on three...

That was the first one I tried and sent back. I didn’t think the octave mini-saddles were going to adjust without falling apart. Getting an undrilled body would be a perfect solution. Very straightforward.

I forgot to mention needing to buy more tuners. Two sets... I really like the open back, Hipshot "Griplock" tuners, especially the staggered post sets they make. I decided to use different colors for the main strings and for the octaves; after tuning it today, I'm also thinking about filing some...

I used as many of the pick guard holes as I could, and had to drill 3 in different locations due ti the different shape. But with the 12 string neck mounted on, The old alignment was shown to be off (In terms of having the bridge sit exactly into the shallow cutout of the pick guard, so to get...

Yes. Those holes on a standard tele are 6 straight across, and on the gotoh 12 string bridge they're stepped, rather than straight (sort of like intonation placement of the saddles). Plus, the string to string (as a pair, center to center, is .015 wider on the tele bridge. It starts adding up...

The pickguard needed holes cut for both pickups. Since I had a tele thin line plate I used that as a pattern for the neck hole. I clamped them together and scribed a line (then filled it with dry erase marker) where I needed to dremel out the opening. I then files and sanded it to the scored...

The bridge really became a puzzle. I didn't realize that the pick guard I had, which was from Warmoth, was actually cut to receive a bridge plate exactly that size, so I put the Baritone neck back on, and stated placing it via equal distances from nut to 12th fret and Bridge to 12 th fret—then I...

I'll start with a picture. Up until about 2 months ago, this was a Baritone I had put together in 2020. In late 2021 I began to think how much I'd love a guitar that combined the open and rich sound of my Eastman carve stop (thin line, single-cut jazz box basically) with the Tele Baritone I had...