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Looks like the difference is clipping diodes, a capacitor, and the Filter toggle switch is fixed in the Left position.

I think you want/need an iron where the heating element is integrated into the tip itself, rather than in the handle. The tip I use is the Pace 1130-0501-P1, I use it with a Pace ADS200. I think the Hakko equivalent would be something like the FX-971.

Have you seen @captain's stereo Low Tide? I mean, it's not a 1590BB but still.... Dual Mono/Stereo Low Tide with some Mojo

It's one of the best tool purchases I've ever made. Not once have I thought "Man, I really spent too much on that."...

Nothing wrong with that really. What I don't like is when someone slaps different artwork on the exact same pedal and pretends it's a totally different pedal... How can the same Crunch Box clone sound just like Angus and Gibbons?

Probably....

You never know, Aion might trace it one day.

Install C2 and C14 opposite to the polarity indicated on the silkscreen. It'll work either way, and you might prefer it as marked on the PCB, but technically it's not correct. Glad you reminded me, this thing is still plugged in on the shelf. I need to check the cap soon.

And while we're at it.... @Ginsly

Yes, this is definitely what's in the Holdsworth overdrive. Looks like there might be a few component value differences, but no doubt that's what the boost portion is based on. Apparently this is based on something called the "Fix My Duck Booster Pedal" ... because I mean, we knew it had...

@Bricksnbeatles Let's find out...

False Prophet was my first choice but I thought it might upset some folks.... In fact, I'm calling it the False Prophet.

Yep, they've always had ground planes with the exception of one or two.

Most of the projects here have a ground plane on the top and/or bottom of the PCB. Imagine the empty area of the board flooded with a solid copper layer. This acts like a heat-sink and absorbs a lot of the heat from your iron, pulling it away from the solder pad you intend to heat. To...

It looks like your iron is struggling to maintain heat on the pads that are connected to the ground plane. The ground pads have thermal reliefs to help with that, but still require a bit more heat than the others. Lead free solder is probably contributing to that. It's odd though, because it...

Digital goop. :ROFLMAO: (Thank you for the heads up, it's been a hell of a week)

Yeah I've worked on a few like that. Xvive, Pigtronix, etc... You'll have to desolder the pinheaders to get them apart, I use my wide-blade iron to separate them.

Yep, they come in bags labeled with the project name so you can tell them apart. You should be able to identify them fairly easily using an Arachnid since it has an 8-position rotary switch to select between the programs. The Hydra wouldn't be the best choice for identification, it behaves a...

If that's your first attempt at soldering an FV-1 I'd say you did pretty dang good. I think you should be good to go. I can send you the trace routing if you want it, but I don't see any issues there.

I thought they were going to be hard to find but Tayda has them, and luckily I found a few in my stash. No idea what I originally intended to use them for, but I suppose it'll become obvious when I get to that project. :ROFLMAO: This is the first PNP negative ground 'Muff I've seen.