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One thing I can't stress enough is to be patient and don't start ripping parts off of the board until you're fairly sure. Also, aside from semiconductors (ICs, transistors, etc) from shady sources (Amazon, eBay, Alibaba, AliExpress, etc), it's not extremely common to have a defective new...

Those should be trustworthy then... They looked a little suspicious to me at first, but after comparing to the ones I have here (direct from TI) they look similar. Let's make sure you don't have any solder bridges between the pins of your sockets. Set your DMM to continuity mode, no power...

I use that type of socket in all of my builds and have never had an issue. I am in the minority around here, but I personally don't like the machined sockets. Just make sure the IC is seated firmly. Not to sound like a broken record, but where did you get your TL074s?

It's extremely rare, but I have had a few manufacturing defects over the years. Never anything that affected an entire batch of PCBs unless "someone" made a mistake.... which usually means me. There have been a couple occasions where engineers at the fabricator (I can't recall if it was...

It's hard to say for sure from the photo, but it looks like your 10K resistors could actually be 100K. (fourth band should be red, not orange) Also confirm the values of R17 (22K) and R19 (20K)

If you want to use the LED on the breakout board you would jumper the current limiting resistor and LED on the main PCB. If you want to use the LED on the main effect PCB you would jumper the current limiting resistor on the main PCB, and the LED on the breakout board.

At one point JLCPCB was overcharging tariffs due to the constant and rapid fluctuations. I suspect they aren't going to jump out there and immediately adjust the rates based on this news. https://jlcpcb.com/news/logistics-update-us-china-tariff Due to the fluctuating customs duty rate...

R13 should be 470R, you have 470K installed. By the way, we have genuine 1S1588's in the shop if you don't want to make separate parts orders. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/1s1588/

R10 / 10K on top, R6 / 220K on bottom, assuming op has the current version of the PCB. It's always possible they have a previous revision but the values printed on the PCB itself would be the correct values in either case.

I should have linked that but I thought maybe OP wanted something a little smaller than the normal "bench top" type.... I probably misunderstood.

I don't have any suggestions, but based on this image I'd say it's pretty small. It'd be excellent for drilling etched PCBs though.

They can be, but on the bright side... only once. So far I've only seen one pedal that was obscured in a way that caused a serious headache... most of them just require a little time and patience... I won't say which pedal, or brand, or what method was used so no one gets any bright ideas...

What kind of forum do you think this is? ....

Told you that was going to happen if you didn't stop.....

Filtering depends on the expected power supply, and requirements of the circuit. A DC powered, low current, purely analog circuit typically requires less filtering than a circuit that consumes high current or has digital circuitry. Most modern power supplies already provide a fair amount of...

(I realize you're focusing more on filtering than polarity protection, but I had this ready to post in another section) The three most common methods of polarity protection I see are: Series - The diode is in series with the load/circuit and blocks any reverse voltage/current. No current...

I think this was an update by PaulC after release, the values on the PCB do (and always did) match the original I traced. (Not arguing with the man himself, just saying) :ROFLMAO:

Smoke twice ...... and what was I going to do?