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For the string ringer, if you can measure center point to center point distance on the top two left pots that would be great. Also measure center to center from the top two outside pots. The two measurements will let me make sure my printed copy is to scale since I don’t have the board for...

I will try and get you a drill template for the string ringer. It looks like tayda offers drilling service for the 1590d. That’s the first time I have noticed it. It may take me a little longer as I don’t have anything set up for that box yet. Do you have the physical board? Since I don’t have...

I built the mangel wurzel and it’s awesome. I don't think it will fit in anything that tayda offers though. They have a bb2 and it’s about 5mm shorter than the bbs. The jacks would be way too tight. I had an old 125bb which is similar to the bbs and it barely fits. If you search mangul wurzel...

I personally use the @jimilee method and solder and forget it. It’s not like I am going to look at the board and it doesn’t bother me. Now @MichaelW has a plastic bowl filled with ipa and drops the whole board in it. He does this before he solders switches and pots so they don’t get messed up...

Here you go. As always I would double check with the actual board but this is based off the template in the build doc. The power is the smaller lumberg style and the led is 5 mm. https://drill.taydakits.com/box-designs/new?public_key=Nk83QUdySEQ5L3BYTFhON2kyaWlNUT09Cg==

So power seem fine. Next, since you are saying you get a big buzz in bypass it leads me to think something is wrong with your offboard wiring. Check and make sure your soldering on your switch is clean and no extra wire is touching anything. Even if your circuit is faulty you shouldnt get noise...

Put your black lead from the dmm to a ground and the red to pin 8. Make sure your dmm is set to voltage. You should get something like 9v and 18v depending on the switch. Another thing that will be helpful is an audio probe. Do you by chance have one?

A 1590bb would be 90mm x 115.5mm. Scan down on the link and you will see each side for the different boxes. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware-tools/enclosures/enclosure-uv-printing-service.html

I will give it another few days to see if someone has it. If not I will work on one for you.

It’s not the capacitor I am worried about. It’s the charge pump itself. I see this one has a switch for 9v and 18v. I thought you plugged in 18v (that’s my bad). Use your Dmm to verify on pin 8 of your ic that it has 9v and 18v depending on the switch. Pin 8 is the top right. Let’s start there...

9v is what you want. I can tell you if you plugged an 18v your charge pump is toast. That’s what I was going after. They are very sensitive to over voltage. Anything over 10v and they are usually fried. I was just trying to rule out the simple stuff. In most cases that’s what it is, something...

Sorry about the socketing. I was looking at a pic for this same board by linus. Not sure how it got posted here. What power supply are you using out of curiosity?

No worries. You are more likely to get a response though if you start a new thread in the KiCad area. More folks will see it.

For future builds I recommend socketing your ic’s. It’s easy to cook them if you’re not careful and charge pumps can be finicky bitches.

Just wanted to say that @MichaelW sent me one of these boards and it is a fantastic delay.

Nice to see you sprung for some decent knobs! :)

The article is a little vague on this but there is one sentence towards the end that applies here. “A phaser needs JFETs that are all in the resistive range - not fully on or fully off- at the same time.” So it may be minimal and i don't have the data sheet in front of me for the 5952 but if...

Here you go. This is based off the build doc template. Leds are 3mm no bezel and the power is the lumberg style. https://drill.taydakits.com/box-designs/new?public_key=ajNZMjVRSVNFeU1RSzNMQjNONGptZz09Cg==

As per my norm give it a few days to see if any one shows up with it. If not I will whip one up for you.

Not saying you shouldn’t wait, you absolutely should. Those fv-1 are tricky if you’re not used to smd. That being said learning how to solder smd should be on your to do list. With a lot of transistors getting harder to find in through hole form smd is inevitable. I recommend you search for a...