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This will probably only interest a small cross-section of people who are interested in FV-1 coding the FV-1 line by line, and who like making waveform signals in Microsoft excel. Let me know if I'm not alone in that cross-section... When I want to understand how a block of FV-1 code works...

Well that TS and SD-1 info checks out, here's a quick and dirty Spice I did worked off some other similar circuits I had already modeled. At Tone=50%, TS is indeed ~720 peak and SD1 is ~1k peak. I know tyou already posted graphs of both, but I wanted to see them side-by-side in the same...

Klon circuit is indeed good. You mentioned the SD-1 has a 1kHz mid hump, vs the 700 (or 720) on the TS. Is there some analysis that shows that? The thought the SD-1 was pretty similar. Same HPF on the clipping stage (720) and just a bit higher LPF before the tone stage (884 vs 723)...

The spacing on the tweakit looks like about 0.1”, not the 0.2” of the pot pins on the pcbs. So you’d have to bend the connector legs. Still very doable. If the spacing was wider you could use pin headers

Maybe that’d be a nice idea for a new pedalpcb utility board (pot->trimmer)

Oops my bad yeah the trimmit wouldn’t work for this exactly

Pedalpcb has a Trimmit board for this exact purpose ($0.50). I’ve also made similar board out of stripboard.

For reference, from any of the pedalpcb build docs

I think your 9V jack red (+) and black (-) are swapped. That is, assuming you're using center-negative 9V plug like all pedals. There's no protection diode so it's possible that the reverse voltage hook-up damaged the transistors or electrolytic caps. (I'm guessing not, but it's possible that...

I would go 1u MLCC also, I’ve found that sometimes E-caps can let a little DC voltage leak through. If this happens at this point in the circuit, then a little dc voltage builds up on the output and causes a pop when switching. Film works too, as mentioned. I haven’t had any issues I’ve...

don't know. You could export the SpinASM code and analyze it. It should have text commands for: WRAX DACL, 0 (which means write some signal to the Left Output (Digital->Analog Converter Left) (pin 28) WRAX DACR, 0 (which means write some signal to the Right Output (Digital->Analog Converter...

The dev board doesn’t tie L and R outputs together. R output is unconnected. Anyway, cool project, thanks for sharing

your diagram was not correct, it showed diodes connected in parallel, not series. Also, if it helps, pretend the A & K holes aren't there. they're just for convenience so the LED fits nicer. They function just like the outer holes.

You’ll want them in series to raise the Vf (total forward voltage. , also = clipping threshold).

Agree about reading that article. Also, Do you have a multimeter? If not, get a cheap one and put it in Beep mode (conductivity test) to illustrate how the pcb points correspond to the circuit diagram. That process might clarify things.

It’s not the same, but kinda similar to the Tube Screamer, which uses a W taper to help get some chances on the middle area. You can try messing with this filter some for a mid scoop, worth a try. but there’s nothing structurally set up to cut mids, like a notch filter as is. If you really...

The bigger chunk of metal inside that clear led is the cathode (negative) (toward the center of the board). Just for reference. Glad you got it going!

Cool! You can still do red led one direction, 1n4148 the other direction, that’s just not how you had it when you had a total of 3 1n4148s. You can just put a 1n4148 back where you were gonna put the orange, try both directions so the red still works. The orange led should have worked, IF it...

This picture how you have it? The build doc says diode OR LEDs looks like you have both in that spot