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Yes, they are terrible. They just fall apart and the threads just strip right off

Yep, I have this one open because it's broken. I'm with ya

Like this?

Captain Obvious says "If they came with the extra nut then they would be used more"

They look like Lego :)

...and people are still supporting and electing those who seem to be getting away with it all even after it's painfully obvious that they've been had.

Side-chaining is when a signal output controls a parameter of another effect. So in Feral's example the autowah and compressor would have to have a separate input for the sidechain trigger that routes to one of those particular parameters, which in the case of the autowah would be the split dry...

Calm down people. It's a feature request.

You sure the equivalent is an A with a grounded input and not an ungrounded C like he already has?

If you havent asked Ampeg yet, I would send them a message. That's really the only way you are gonna know for sure which one it needs.

I thought it was Tah dah, like you just did a magic trick. 😁

Sorry, you are right. Solid state amps tend to use tanks with a higher input impedance. I don't see it specified in the schematic but from what I see online, other ss ampegs use something like a 4FB3A1C

You can just disconnect the cable from the tank input and test the tip and sleeve of the cable.

I think the 4bb3c1b is the wrong tank for it. I think it is supposed to be a 4Ab3c1b. It has a different input impedance. https://mojotone.com/blogs/news/understanding-reverb-tanks-what-those-letters-and-numbers-really-mean?srsltid=AfmBOorEMLASFsjYPoRgedIYK_lzKEr7_NE0l7Vpm6uTk9WBKkC2BSS0

The schematic has a test point TP13 with voltages for the input to the reverb pan. If you have a multimeter, that would be a good starting point.

I did the same and ended up getting a couple of these in the suggested hfe 51-60 range. I have not tried them yet so fingers crossed. https://synthcube.com/2n1304-germanium-transistor-npn-motorola-k0427/

I remembered I have an old short reverb tank and it will fit very nicely in the bottom of the enclosure. Anybody know of a small reverb driver board I could tack on to this thing. There is actually a good bit of space in the chassis.

So it turns out that there is a jumper in the path from VR2 to C20. I'll just snip it and use the ends to install the effects loop without having to unsolder anything. C20 is circled in blue, jumper is red

Cool, thanks for the input. I'll probably add a full send and return buffered effects loop to it. Why change the cutoff freq? Also, the speaker was blown and repaired but sounded like the coil was rubbing so I ordered a replacement Celestion Eight 15 4ohm. Hopefully that will help out with the...