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Use the 0.5mA parts for Q1 & Q3, the 0.7mA parts for Q2 & Q4.

What does 1 .3 ma mean? is is 1.3mA or something else? Maybe it means one 0.3mA? Please try to be more clear.

Elsewhere in The Boneyard I describe how to measure Idss using a 9V supply, a DMM & a resistor.

You can thank The Orange Guy for that. Pray that his trip to China doesn't result in even higher tariffs.

I would have thought Golden Fleece to be the obvious pedal name for an ovinophile such as yourself. ;)

I remember a time when Tayda discounted the shipping for large $ orders. Did Tayda separate out the tariff costs? Or maybe they're rolled up in the shipping cost?

My personal policy is that the merchandise should cost more than shipping. I choose the quantities accordingly. My friendly neighborhood Electronics Store has 4000-series CMOS. I already bought all of the "good" CD 4049s & CD4069s. They have CD4007, but I already stocked up on a Mouser order.

That one will work. Mouser also carries them and offers a significant price break if you buy 10 or more.

Awesome!

Jumper all three lugs on the BODY switch and you can't miss. According to the board photo, we should lift the bottom end (closest to the LEVEL pot) of R18. Sometimes the board layout gets updated and the photo does not, so use a DMM to verify which end of R18 connects to GND and lift that end.

If Q1 was backwards, the bias would be so far off that I doubt any signal would get thru. Q4 might work backwards, but it would screw up the bias on Q3 big time. Also Q1 & Q4 would not be sensitive to the MIDS knob. Q5 would definitely have a problem if it was in backwards. The body diode...

So I swapped out the 2N2222A & 2N2219A for a pair of BC337-25 (HFE around 400), adjusted the bias and it sounds much better. The only mod I recommend is moving the pickup trim to the front panel, making it a 4-knob Fuzz Face. If you're interested in Yet Another Fuzz Face, this one is worth...

It's not supposed to to that. Dialing down the mids cuts only the mids around 650Hz. Max cut is 12dB. Something is definitely wrong with board. Maybe you can get a 2nd set of eyes to check your schematic & board routing. Also visually check the soldering for shorts.

Noise analysis must be done in the context of the entire circuit. Whatever is in parallel with the bias resistor shunts some of the noise away. The result is that a bigger resistor is not necessarily more noisy, it may well be less noisy. Voltage drop due to bias current is a serious...

Servo Fuzz & Average White Fuzz pretty much cover the same ground as this one.

It's a polarized tantalum cap. I'd just use film instead. I changed that to 68nF film when I deleted R4.

I got a hold of one of these and had to trace it. It's a modified Silicon Fuzz Face, hand-crafted in the Czech Republic by Electronic Orange. Beautiful construction in a bullet-proof steel case. In the SINGLES position, C2 and the PU trim pot are bypassed. In the HBS position C2 & PU trim...

It's pretty similar. I need to hook it up again and play it. I've made other opto-based distortion circuits that exploit the non-linearity inherent in a photo-transistor opto.

This is a variation on a Fuzz Face. In the classic Fuzz Face, there is negative feedback from the 2nd transistor's emitter thru a resistor to the first transistor's base. Instead of doing the negative feedback that way, I'm using photons. In the circuit above, Q1's emitter current flows thru...

Nope, never had my hands on an original Hoof pedal. I've seen pix of production pedals with various Ge trannys. Not sure the part number matters all that much. Those appear to be MP38A, which are quite plentiful. They used quality parts on that one, but they could have cleaned the board...