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Welp, now I need to order another enclosure for another project that’s on the list (or will be on the list). Those glow in the dark are sweet.

Eh, but you got some sweet knobs (on your builds). And you build some different stuff and tube stuff, so it’s cool to see variety.

So, melting the tops of your capacitors is cool? If it is, just call me Miles Davis.

Every time my builds don’t work, I’m singing this stickman jingle. IM LOOKING AT YOU FLINTLOCK FLANGER.

Not to sound awkward, but nice knobs, bro. :)

My wish is a 125B size with a bit lower walls. Seems weird, but sometimes the taller walls just feel like they’re just a bit too much

Ash is fun to work with, but this is heavy (not swamp ash) northern ash. Secret finish tip: use a stiff wire brush to make the grain pores a little deeper than the surface. Use a black dye to lightly coat the body. Sand back to 320/400. Stain with the color of your choice.

It’s pretty much finished, but I need a new potentiometer - overheated the track I think moving a couple wires. Oops. Anyways, Rosser ash body in reverse jazz master with a maple/maple baritone neck (27”) that I stained with Angelus leather dyes.. It took a while to actually find one, but it...

That makes sense for your guitar. Narrow neck plate does make sense for Matsumoku makes. *edit* I think I found it -- Aria L6S copy made by Matsumoku (Aria was the house brand name). Looks like it should have been a plain cream/natural color, but someone has definitely refinished it. The three...

I don’t know if you need to sand more, but maybe a thin mist of water on the raw wood and sand. It might help the grain a smidge, but not 100% sure. Tru oil is good. If you feel confident, brushing lacquer works (nitro, etc). Just put on a thin layer, let it sit until it sets, then add another...

Silly delay that I’ll probably never use with a setting that can conjure robot farts? Welp, I’m in.

Yeah, that might be an issue. :) When I pull my ? flanger, is there something specific you’d like me to look for? Voltages? Pictures? Let me know and I can dig more information for you.

1590A + two Ge EasyFace + on the fly perf layout. Have fun (not a true entry, but just you all can hate on it)

So, I’ve been working on trying to make a 1590A based pedalboard that is something I can grab and go that covers almost all bases. Enter the need for a fuzz. This is an EasyFace from Joe Gagan with two Ge transistors rather than Si/Ge. Q1 is an MP35 with about 50-70 he and Q2 is an MP38 with...

I’ll have to check mine, but I think I had to do something with the MN3207 clock chip’s voltage to get it to work correctly. I’ll look at it tomorrow when I have time.

Yes. That is going to be a beast.

Are you using channels 1 and 2 from the VH4? I’m eventually going to build channel 3 or 4 as a preamp.

Mmm bread board. Preferably rye. Or pumpernickel. Wheat is good too. Mmmm…. Fuzz face on rye. I’ll get the build posted. I figured out my breadboarding duh and got it running yesterday. It’s a rats nest in the 1590A but it does sound nice.

Lo and behold, the small stupid: I think I missed the row a jumper cable connected to. I got it boxed up today. This is version 2. I think I threw out a working previous perf board version because it wouldn’t work (only in bypass). Come to find out the switch was bad, grounding the input. D’oh.

I really think the Purple Platypus is a fun circuit. It does, like you say, get weird. I actually need to grab my DeFx version and fix the octave switch - there’s still bleed through of the octave and I want to make it on/off. 5/5 good pedal and great graphics.