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no worries, we all have our errors 🤙

this will definitely fuck up Q3's idle bias. once you've corrected this, check Q3c again. shouldn't matter at all. doesn't matter. 100n is 100n, they should perform the same in this circuit.

yeah something's going on, you should be able to dial it around 4.5v (although it's a taste thing, i prefer around 5v) what value is the bias trimpot? we will need clear, in-focus, detailed photos of both sides of the board/build to determine this.

regrettably, tayda. everywhere else just wants to fuck me with unreasonable shipping charges.

+1 this is how the jack needs to be hooked up: also - from the photos, it doesn't appear that all of your ground wires have continuity with each other. they should. - great way to do this is to ensure that all ground wires meet at the input jack sleeve.

it's all good

my bad, ill stfu 🤐

lead doesn't vapourize at soldering temperatures. it's the flux rosin particulates that you're trying to avoid.

yeah idk maybe the gated/velcro/weirdness of it is something people actually like. seems a bit 'unwieldy' to me. appreciate the kind feedback tho - thanks 🤟

unfortunately buying opamps from amazon will be as likely to land genuine units as me shooting a 3-point basket blindfolded. it's probably the only component type (ICs) in this entire game where using genuine parts matters. please install some genuine opamps.

we built FET city, we built FET city on thru hole board

for what it's worth, you can actually just sub the JFET for a 2N5089 (or probably a 2N5088) and it doesn't sound any different. (per breadboard investigations). it's just an input buffer. good call. maybe drop in something guaranteed genuine like a 4558 or whatever and see if it works (opamp...

if so, your amp is operating as it's supposed to. that's what the master volume is for, and this is normal.

i’ve built the 100W version of this. selecting the crunch mode (from clean) in the ‘normal channel’ should result in a large output volume increase. if that’s not happening, i’d suggest carefully reviewing the wiring around the toggle switches, for a start. the amp shouldn’t need mods to make...

i'm seeing this as a good thing. looking at the schematic, appears this could be a fun distortion. i'd breadboard it.

no idea if this will be to your standards/expectations, but i did a plexi-inspired build of the mofeta and i thought it was alright.. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/%E2%80%98jmp-super-fet%E2%80%99-mofeta-eae-model-fet-w-super-lead-plexi-inspired-mods.25666/

alternatively, perhaps the mids control could be a fixed gain boost, and the external pot controls/dials in the desired mid frequency to be boosted - ...as per the greatest overdrive pedal of all time - the maxon ST-9

https://www.runoffgroove.com/splitter-blend.html

just a simple belt replacement for this WM-FX195 back in action!

this has always been a problem when i used dymo. the only way i have found to combat this issue is to use the longest lengths possible: e.g.