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Depends if they're fake or not, those J201s

Many pedal players like myself operate the same way: set it and forget it

This board is definitely a rite of passage if you're into muffs. I've probably spent more time flipping switches on it that actually playing through it. One of the reasons why it just stays on my shelf.... Nice build, though!

@MichaelW any requests? Happy to help. There are a few other threads I made to help push in the right direction. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/designing-stripboard-layouts-part-1.24472/ https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/designing-stripboard-layouts-part-2.24515/

A C tapered pot will give you more control of the gain in terms of the sweep

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/whats-the-deal-with-stripboard-veroboard.10439/

It also depends on the type of LEDs you're working with. If you've got the super bright ones from tayda, don't be surprised if you're CLR is 25k+.

So, is this an Electra with a BMP tone control plus recovery stage? If you could post a full schematic that would be helpful.

Oh, and I built one of these. It can easily fit in a 1590b.

Makes sense to me. Your coupling cap for the audio probe doesn't need to be that big (1uf OR 630V). For guitar, a "standard" 100nf box cap will work just fine. If you've got the space you can use a 1uf box cap.

How does it fare with sound coloring?

There's probably a solder bridge somewhere. Can we see the back of the vero? It would be a good idea to run your iron down the tracks to clean them up.

1590a's are cool looking, but not worth the headache to put together.

Mind the polarity

So sorry to hear @KR Sound

https://www.guitarscience.net/tsc/bigmuff.htm#RIN=1k&R1=33k&R2=33k&RM=100k&RL=1M&C1=10n&C2=10n&RM_pot=Linear

They're not all zingers. There are too many circuits out there that simply underwhelmed me. Your building skills are still top notch, though. Nice and clean!

Where did you get your J201s? They may be out of spec.

That board appears to not really have a breakout section other than IN and OUT. You’ll have to get a little creative to add a PPCB breakout board, meaning you’ll have to jumper a 9V and GND connection somewhere to it. Also you’ll need to add a LED and CLR