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It does now. I suspect I had a stray wire causing problems, as I took it out of the housing to check for obvious solder bridges etc.. and didnt see anything. Put it back and now its "better". Still weird as hell, but better :)

I got them on EBay from China. I bought a 5 pack, happy to send you a couple..

Just finished the build, plugged in and immediately had no idea WTF was happening 😂 Still not sure if I built it right or not, it’s basically just noise that shifts a bit when knobs are twiddled. Not what I was expecting but that’s how it goes when you go in blind.

Ok, back to square one. The pedal is not exhibiting the same low output, low fuzz. I have swapped a bunch of transistors in both Q1 and Q2 and the same issue persists. When its first in line, its weak and quiet. When I put it behind a buffer w/ a touch of boost, it wakes up, but is noisy...

Assembly was a breeze, I feel the pcb is laid out very well. Despite having a bunch of components it doesn’t seem cluttered. Also helping the situation was a pre-drilled enclosure haha. I need to have this done with all of my other builds. Short of a handful of specific parts, I had all on...

None of the pot support tabs are soldered. I think the build docs state to solder for ground. I have no idea if this is the issue or not, but figured I would point it out

Haha yea, I assumed they were not a direct 1 for 1 but wasn’t having much Google luck. Tayda said sorry, offered to replace or credit. I opted for credit as I had already bought replacements from Mouser

I wrote an e-mail, but I just found out about the error. Just wondering if it's an interchangeable part or if I should source elsewhere in the meantime...Based on cursory research it doesn't look to be an interchangeable part, at least in terms of the voltage this particular pedal produces...

I dont know enough about parts interchangeability. I followed the link in the C2CE King of Nothing build docs, ordered what I thought were IRF740's and received BS170's in a baggie marked as IRF740. They look completely different. Not sure what to do at this point, other than reorder from...

working under a bare incandescent lightbulb dangling by a 3' wire (tried to quote Coda)

It’s been a journey of learning but I’m super glad I finally decided to give this a shot. My first build was a Sproing Reverb. It went together reasonably well, but I ran into some classic newb in/out jack wiring issues and I ended up screwing up the led tabs on the pcb. Wired the led directly...

I set the external bias knob to noon, then bias to -4.5-ish volts. I suspect it was a combination of clean trim, lack of bias and maybe the original Q1 transistor just not being happy with everything lol. The 308 seems to be much more "accepting" of an idiot's approach that I seem to employ...

Indeed. However the loop on the EUNA shuts the buffer off and activates whatever pedal is in it.

Honestly I have no idea what’s changed. The bias knob is fully counter clockwise. Taking the fuzz out of the 29 Pedals EUNA effects loop seemed to wake it up. I swapped the original q1 308B (I think, GT308b?) back in, and it’s great now. I don’t think the other transistor was the issue though...

I’ll reflow and report back. I believe the trim pots are the right values, unless I managed to mix them up. I can double check that as well. I did remove the fuzz from a pedal efx loop in was in, and some volume and fuzz returned. But the fuzz is super farty sounding…

I did not. I have a breadboard set up to do this but iM still new enough at all of this that I need a visual vs. the schematic. I know it’s a simple set up but alas…

Just built this last night. Q1 measured 79, Q2 I think is 150 or so? Maybe a bit less. Biased Q2 to -4.5v, and the clean bias trim is all the way down. I hardly get any fuzz, I have to dime both volume and fuzz, and even then it’s pathetic. Built to specs, the only thing I did different was...

I sorted it out, by removing the switch pcb and just wiring it manually. I’m clearly not understanding vital element when using a switch PCB. If I use the LED pads on the switch PCB, how do I power the LED? There is an extra 9v/ ground pad, I figured I would just run 9v and ground straight to...

I am using a Love my Switches switch PCB, and a prewired LED w/ resistor. My last pedal, I ran a wire from the dc jack 9v and ground to the respective solder points on the switch PCB, and everything works. My most recent build, a Bellum MK ii, when I do the same thing, the pedal doesnt work...

Just looking, can anyone tell me what’s missing or going wrong? I’ve followed instructions (presided w/CLR, red goes to red, black goes to black) and well as images I’ve seen online and everything seems to check out. Pedal works, no LED. I know it works because when I jump it to 9v and ground...